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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 7:55 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 8:51 pm
Posts: 137
Location: w.a
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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 9:21 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 6:54 pm
Posts: 1361
Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
Great to see some updates! And some photos Thanks for sharing mate.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 10:28 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2007 2:21 pm
Posts: 3170
Location: Blackburn, Victoria.
Nice car, and excellent combination too :thumbsup: your motor is barely working at all with those power figures. But its probably still a lot in that car. Have you got any pictures of how you mounted the engine? And the exhaust manifold? I am trying to convince a friend that this is the best solution to his tired L20B.

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The fleet:
'80 200B GX - the green200b - hibernating
'81 RX-7 - 12A turbo, coilovers, 4.11 Torsen LSD - daily
'74 RX-2 - 13B bridgeport, 4.44 LSD - cruiser
'82 Hilux - 350 Chev, 4.3 Detroit Locker, 33s - 4WD

Dato200B wrote:
Green200B has forgotten more about 200Bs than we will ever know.


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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2017 1:16 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 20, 2009 11:40 pm
Posts: 69
Location: Melbourne, Vic
rx510 wrote:
Hi guys and girls,

Its been a while since I posted a update, been busy with other projects ie work and my house. I had a lot of pictures on a harddrive that was stolen from my daily driver a few years back, so I have lost many photos of the build plus other photos unfortunately. Someone out there has scored a harddrive worth F-all to them!

Anyways here are some photos I found on a old computer CD when I was tidying up recently. I have finally finished the door trim inserts, and also modified my FD jap import seat rails so they can slide further back another 70mm or so (there are threads on one of the rotary forums on how to do this).

Its a tight squeeze with the rotary engine. The neck of the steering rack had to be rotated, I had Rotomotion weld this for me and machine it. They did an excellent job at a good price considering the amount of time to set it up on the mill after welding. Also I had a friend of a friend machine and spline a longer extension at a good price (4101 steel from memory) from the column to the rack. Shorter steering knuckles were used as well to get maximum turning circle.

Recently I had the steering rack rebuilt with new seals etc (about $480 from memory?) as when I originally rebuilt it I accidentally damaged a oil seal assembling it. I thought I would save the labour pains and get a pro to do it and he can pressure test it and with warranty as well. The difference in steering is huge compared to the old steering boxes. I also stripped and painted the crossmember in KBS coatings which I am a big fan of (I have seen powder coating when it chips and moisture gets under it, it then gets surface rust and peels like a sheet of paper)



Really love this car - rotary engines are a real favourite of mine and I am currently planning a 1600 build with an extend port, NA 13B, too. Also very interested in the power rack & pinion steering you have in the car....could you tell us more about it....what cross member / suspension mods, what rack, steering column mods, etc.....?


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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2017 11:21 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 8:51 pm
Posts: 137
Location: w.a
Thanks for the comments above.

If I get time during the week I will see if get some pics of the engine mounts and manifold, it will be a bit hard to see as there are a lot of things in the way. Its front mounted using the old 12a style timing cover with a seperate crossmember, I think Maddat do something similar and also most other rotary conversions in older cars.

The manifold mounts the turbo up higher, the reason I did this was so I can run a power steering pump and aircon. If you dont run these two things you can angle the engine to the left hand side of engine bay. Then you will be able to use the standard series 4/5 manifold.

Regarding the steering, the crossmember I custom made which you should be able to see in the pics, I have seen people weld mounts off the original crossmember but I wanted set the control arms inside the crossmember, rather then using the original control arm mountings (if that makes sense). The power steering pump is the original Series 4/5 RX7. I used the original control arms and did some calculations with the custom made crossmember so the pivot point locations are in the original position, so the car has the same track width and length (maybe slightly different because of wheels and brake setup). The rack is out of a 90s corolla if I remember right. I went measuring for suitable racks at wreckers many years ago. If you do the conversion you would be better off finding a rack where you dont have to rotate the rack neck as this is quite a job. Also the rack ends need to be shortened and re-threaded to match the control arm lengths. You do not want to shorten the rack length especially with power steering as the turning circle will be absolute crap.

The steering wasnt cheep to do even doing the work myself.

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