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 Post subject: Yellow 1600 build thread
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2017 1:39 pm 
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G'day fellas,

I've been lurking on ozdat for quite a while reading the other build threads with great interest. I have just brought home a 71 Datsun 1600 that I'm planning to restore and rebuild. The car is currently stripped and has been re-sprayed in the factory yellow in acrylic (unicryl 3000) by the previous owner.

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The body is not perfect, but appears in generally quite good condition for a car that has been raced. The engine bay has been seam welded, and the battery tray in the engine bay has been removed. There is a ding in the front valance panel and the left rear quarter is a little wonky.

I'm tossing up having the car re-spayed in 2 pack while it's still stripped down and sitting on a trolley. I still haven't made up my mind on which way to go with the paint. Either:
1. rub and buff the current paint and see how it turns out, or
2. take the opportunity to get it done in two pack now...

I'd be happy to hear any opinions from you guys on acrylic VS 2 pack. My previous experience with acrylic has been it looks nice initially but doesn't last too well.

I have a worked L20b with webers, 260z 5 speed, 240k struts, and most of the parts to get it back together. The car was previously raced with a roll cage and was mod plated as a two seater in QLD. I don't plan to race the car, just get it back on the road to be a fun sunday driver. I plan to leave out the roll cage and get the interior back to neat and tidy. I believe i will have to get the car engineered in NSW, as I plan to register it here. Although that seems like a long way off at the moment. Its a big job and I'm a little worried I've bitten off more than I can chew!! Anyway hopefully I can get some knowledge from those of you on here who have done this all before. James.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2017 1:55 pm 
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One of the first tasks I want to tackle is the engine and rear cross members. They have a bit of surface rust and look pretty daggy at the moment.
Engine crossmember:
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rear end:

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Also can anyone identify these rear drums^^^^? I assume they are 240z?

Looks like the exhaust hole has been enlarged.

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lower control arms. These appear to be Nissco units? not 100% sure

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What is the best way to finish these items? I was thinking get them media blasted and either painted gloss black 2pack or powder coated? Whats the general consensus on here for most durable finish? Would love to know what process others have used in the past. Any comments or advice is definitely welcomed! I've got no idea what I'm doing over here, but I'm keen to learn :)


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2017 8:31 pm 
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Location: NSW Sydney
Hey mate awesome to see another build thread! I'll add my 2 cents, if you have the coin and patience I would respray in 2k if you're not happy with the colour or finish. 2k is stronger and holds its shine longer. a lot of ppl are getting away with putting a l20 into 1600 these days without it needing it to be engineered. SSS came out with a l18 so l20 is still in the displacement percentage. But the adjustable lower control arms are a different story might wana throw some standard ones in. Keep up the good work hope to see some progress


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 1:40 am 
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Location: Coffs Harbour, NSW
Pretty sure I saw this passing through Coffs the other day!

Looked great on the trailer .

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 6:33 am 
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Stoney, that was probably me. I bought the car in Brisbane and trailered it back home to Sydney last friday. Just spent the weekend cataloging and cleaning the parts I have and figuring out what is missing / broken etc.

The list of things i need to complete the car:
a radiator
Exhaust system
Suspension bushes / rebuild the struts
New front seats
A Rear seat
New Headliner / carpets.
No doubt there will be more things on the wish list as I go.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2017 8:26 pm 
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Not much progress to report. Slow old day of wet sanding and buffing. Did the boot lid as a test run, it came up alright:

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- the photo doesn't really do the boot lid justice, it's looks pretty good. Still a little bit of orange peel.

I moved into the engine bay next. Just sanding sanding sanding. I don't think the buffer will fit into the engine bay will have to buff it by hand..

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What a miserable job!


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 9:03 am 
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Let the assembly process begin! It's quite therapeutic.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 8:15 pm 
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You should looks at getting a small 3 inch buffer it'll do most of the job


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 9:33 pm 
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sutho510 wrote:
You should looks at getting a small 3 inch buffer it'll do most of the job


I've had plenty of time to think about this while i've been wet sanding by hand.

I've got an electric buffer (180mm polisher) which is nice to finish the job off, I'm a bit scared to try wet sanding with an electric buffer, worried it'll burn through the paint. Can you wet sand acrylic with an electric buffer? like 1000,1500 then 2000 finish? it would save a shitload of time..


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2017 7:12 pm 
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Im not sure i just ment if you sand the bay and want to get into the tighter spots you could use the 3 inch polisher


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2017 10:33 am 
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Very nice base to work with mate, looks great so far, love the colour! Just buff the acrylic up, won't matter once it's driving as you'll be thrashing the pants off it and getting plenty of stone chips, right?! :D

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 12:26 pm 
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Thanks Anth510, yeah i love the colour. The acrylic seems to buff up pretty nicely.
BUT,
Now that ive done a closer inspection on the car ive found a few rust holes that need attention before i keep buffing:

In front of the passenger side sill theres a small hole. Ive been reading RJB510's build thread and he cut rust from this exact spot, im planning to get myself a Mig, learn how to use it and have a crack at this one.

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And another small hole between the left front strut and the firewall:

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This one is small but troubling. Ill do it second.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 12:37 pm 
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You are actually lucky they are 'hidden' from view. It means you can just weld in a patch and not worry to much about panel beating around that area.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 8:50 pm 
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Quote:
You are actually lucky they are 'hidden' from view. It means you can just weld in a patch and not worry to much about panel beating around that area.


SR, I was thinking exactly that. Once the guards and bonnet are fitted these sections are totally hidden. It will be my first crack at any sort of work like this, i'll try not to butcher it too much! I don't actually own a dremel tool or mig yet. Perfect excuse to buy some new tools :)


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 11:19 pm 
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Updates?

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Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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