As the topic suggests.....This is the second set of Noltec crossmember mounting bushes I have gone through. These are about 3 years old and lucky to have done 500 km on (been busy with other things have not had much time to drive it).

First set did the same thing. Also replaced diff mount bushes about 2 1/2 years ago ago as they did the same thing (these are whiteline NOW as noltec is not around any more).

I have not had the Whiteline bushes fail as yet.

Pictures below

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My build-
viewtopic.php?f=59&t=26867&p=266789#p266789

SuperPro.Suspension bushings available at Burson Automotive. Top of the tree apart from the originals,which are no longer available.

On the Whiteline website it says "WHITELINE bushing kits with part numbers from W00001 to WZZZZZ and KSK000 to KSKZZZ (Bushing Kits) are covered for their lifetime."

Thanks Bob, any one elses thoughts on which bushes to get? Whiteline or SuperPro.

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My build-
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Havn't ever had that issue before. I have used both Superpro and Whiteline. Both brands are good.

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

I used both Superpro and Nolathane brands and they havent cracked like that yet:

http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_det ... mber=49060

Noltec is out of business. Whilst the moulds were the best in the business, the eurethane was hygroscopic.
The life in humind climates or damp sheds was minimal.

Noltec, nolathane, were from the same chemist. Nolan.

White line have the Noltec moulds & are now producing black eurethane bushes.

We use whiteline bushes as they are the most accurate Datto bushes around.
Not the cheapest, but way better fit than the others.

The eurethane is very stable & the durometer is more suitable than red nolathane.

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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

My Nolathane bushes have done exactly the same thing with maby 5000kms use over the last 8 years.

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1969 Datsun 510 2 Door Sedam - FJ20ET, GT2876R, Haltech, R200 (Street Car All Rounder)
1981 Datsun 910 Bluebird GX Sedan - VQ30DET, GT35R, Jatco (Project Drag - Street 10sec Car)
2011 VW Amarok Highline TD400i

I've both noltec and superpro bushes in my car.
All noltec bushes in my car crumbled after a couple of years.
All superpro are still fine.
Superpro are lots harder than noltec which are pretty soft.

Thanks for the replys. Bases on the Whiteline supposed warranty for these, I have gone with them. $175 more later. Considering these bushes dont really do a great deal compared to pivoting bushes. Im going to be pretty pissed if these fail AGAIN.

May have to go find me coupla hard, pipe-hittin' niggers, who'll go to work on the Whiteline homes with a pair of pliers and a blow torch if these ones fail.

I think when the pivoting ones fail I will try the Superpro ones.

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My build-
viewtopic.php?f=59&t=26867&p=266789#p266789

Nice quote man.

Love that movie. Classic

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My build-
viewtopic.php?f=59&t=26867&p=266789#p266789

Update: both the red coloured Nolathane radius rod bushes and rear crossmember bushes have now cracked apart on my car with not much use....

Hey nick, thank you for the update on this thread after 6 years, helped me chose whiteline over Nolathane for my rear crossmember bushes. Good to see I'm not the only one still searching the old ozdat forums

I had my noltec bushes fail on my radius rods/control arms on the front of my 1600. Bought the superpro versions and they didn't fit. Right part number, but wrong design. Bought the whiteline ones and they are perfect. Easy to install and seem to be a good softness.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (190-210kw @ 15-16psi.)
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6579
M35 Axis Autech

What is the model of your car? i might able to help to find bushing which is an OEM parts of your car.