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 Post subject: Re: Intorducing 'Gaijin'
PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 9:49 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2003 4:16 pm
Posts: 75
Location: WARWICK, Q.
Outstanding project :) Gnose is good, better aero and front air flow but it really needs the spoiler that was made for them. Too late to mention now but driver door clearance can be a problem with the S30, removed the OE armrest on mine and used a pull strap to close the door from inside. Banging your elbow when steering is not good.

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 Post subject: Re: Intorducing 'Gaijin'
PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2010 7:56 pm 
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Posts: 90
If your interested, this is the ATTESSA E-TS ECU and its wiring diagram.

Without understanding this, the chance of using the famous GTRs 4WD capacity and the data tables that are stored in this ECU (seperate from the engines ECU) will not happen.

Whats marked up in green is ok and managed by including these parts from the GTR (eg. G Force sensor) or from the 240z (eg. brake light signal).

Others to work out would be, range of throttle position in volts, and the engine speed signal.

Pluggin a meter into a R32 ECU (either E-TS or Engine) would have these values known.
Unsure if the engine speed signal would be sine or square wave at this stage.
Perhaps someone would let me gently poke a sensor probe into the input/output of either ECU from a R32?



Glenn Martin ?>
:-)

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The ABS portion of the E-TS ECU would be ignored, as these are outputs only (assumption).
I could utilise this portion later If I wanted to add more weight and complexity to the car.


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 Post subject: Re: Intorducing 'Gaijin'
PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 8:03 am 
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Posts: 90
So what would alll this complexity add?

Sure beats any fixed % TORQUE SPLIT.



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 Post subject: Re: Intorducing 'Gaijin'
PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 11:35 pm 
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Posts: 5349
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Pete from PLMS (do a search on the net) should be able to answer your questions about square wave/sine wave output from the gearbox for the speed sensor. The hall effect sensor basically has a sine wave, which then gets converted to square by the speedo (well for SR20's)

See this link: http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/ssi.htm

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http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6579
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 Post subject: Re: Intorducing 'Gaijin'
PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 1:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:38 pm
Posts: 90
Hey thanks for the tip, appreciated.


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 Post subject: Re: Intorducing 'Gaijin'
PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 7:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:38 pm
Posts: 90
Ive attempted to give the panel beater 2 weeks to complete the car from his end, to get some paint applied.



floor squaring off around trans tunnel,

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What about a handbrake?

Holy

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new frame, r33 gtr h.brake from parts bin,

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in its home, looks snug, not too proud. Will chop up standard console to make this fit.

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Make this exhaust clearance work better, and much bigger, to allow lots of heat sheilding, maybe a 4" exhaust in the future.

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Rear bumper aint that straight, maybe look to support this wafer thin item

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Engine bay getting there,

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Mirrors looking the part

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The ugly,

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Remedy for this 'probably' the remainder of the fugly, will be the last bigger job of panel work, some much thicker steel box section from the front castor arms to the rear exisiting subframe.

This will allow;

- The floors to get way more support from this,
- Some flat floor to be attached aka undertray-ing,

- Give support to the driveshaft tail hoop (in case too much traction/power makes something snap) and also the seat mounts support. Phew.


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 Post subject: Re: Intorducing 'Gaijin'
PostPosted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 7:13 pm 
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Posts: 90
Wow, things are looking good.
Scott is the young chap working on the car currently, and he is doing a great job.

Its more fabrication now, not exactly smash repair.

The list of work still needed to be done has been agressively dealt to over several days.

Keep it up Scott.


Aluminium Mirror backing plates so they dont disappear first squeeze of the pedal.
You can wind up the spring tension to keep them holding on tighter.

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Exhaust cut out looks spot on. Plenty of room for heat sheilding, perhaps a bigger exhaust later if needed.
Some intrusion into the passenger cabin space, thats fine.

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Handbrake mount welded in.
Underside connection needs attention, was setup for the existing setup. Shorten the cable and modify the mount will sort this.

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Little bits n peices sorted out, fill holes, cover old mistakes etc. Filled the bolt holes to the old bolt in cage that I bought of Mike, I still have this chromed half cage at home if anyone wants it. Dont want much for it. Its certed and looked great in the car.

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Ruddy beutiful floor supports kind of more like frame rails from firewall to the existing rear diff mount. 1.6mm steel folded from sheet.
The frame protrudes into the cabin by maybe 5mm, and lower under the car by 30mm more then the old bits, which were more sad than that that vampire Robert Patinson.

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Nothing better than this in the boot, RB26 block and a bottle of NOS.

Block $50 on auction site, a dummy block for fitting purposes, since it has some rather viscious damage to bores on several cylinders.

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Chuck the GTR box onto the dummy block and we have our fitting kit ready to go in.
At this stage I will fit this kit in, but continue to complete the car in RWD format first. Probably.

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BUT firstly,

Im dubious of the front frame rails being any good, actually, they are rubbish. One area under around the front crossmember is crushed somewhat. Better sort this now. To be made from 1.6mm sheet steel. We can make sure they will be level each side, making the cross member, suspension pickup[ point nice and level.

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old rubbish coming out of the car; the magazine is for the vampire mad misses. I still dont get it, really.

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Im feeling the love here, this is almost ready for colour.

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Im hoping to get the car out from here in about 10 days or less, with current progress, this looks likely.
Its only been here for coming up a couple of YEARS............. :shock:

Most likely watchers will die of old age before these wheels ever turn


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 Post subject: Re: Intorducing 'Gaijin'
PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 6:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:38 pm
Posts: 90
Right,

we may be looking good here to keep to almost a two week wrap up.

It hits the sandblaster Monday, Painter Tuesday.
No paint colour chosen still. Ill drag the misses down, she is good with colour combos.


440CCA , 5.5kg battery. Grunty n light. But no good for playing the stereo outside the milkbar while doing some bird watching.
It is mounted behind the passenger seat, Motorsport NZ requires 4x8mm bolts. Will be strapped with some foam and a cover of some sort.

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Roll cage to firewall holes filled using these hoops, cut with a slot, fitted and welded.

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Make the bonnet catch shorter to fit the rough bonnet mount to keep the thing upright.
On this note, Mike I better get your gas strut unit back, this will work fine, while even my kids could lift it in place.

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Main chassis rails were not really rusty inside, but were slightly crumpled, thinwalled steel, and detract from a moderate quailty package.
These may be 1.2mm steel thickness, rather weak.

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Cut n removed, new sections in place, levelled to be straight each side, mounts for cross member the same, sway bar mount swapped from the existing rails, since they were modified and were strong and suitable for use.

These have been replaced each side, from the radiator support back to the replaced rails around the castor arm pickups.

For the people in the know, these rails will suit a RWD setup, not a 4WD one. Let it be heard, this car will be completed as version 1, RWD. To start.

Steel is 1.6mm, with additional gusset plates welded on thereafter, way stronger stuff.

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Some good comparisons old/n/new chassis rails.

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Under front gaurds should be heated and scrapped of old tar stuff and ready for sandblast smooth ready for paint.

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Ready for lift off

Showed Dr Greg Taylor the recent updates, he seems impressed. He manages/funds the Kiwi Team Nurburgring every year, knows a thing or two about race cars. He has also helped me with car storage (for many years filling his barn full of precious Datsun cr*p), advice etc. He does reconstruction surgery, breat augmentation and general tidying up of body parts if your interested, or needing a bit of this help. Not one to need this help, give him a bell if you do.

Dr Taylor - The Dad inlaw


Pity that his son Alistair needs some driving advice after righting off the Audi RS4 then setting fire to the thing at the 'ring

da ring burner


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Tired and ready for the pub now, checking out the Hawkes Bay this weekend, a great place.


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 Post subject: Re: Intorducing 'Gaijin'
PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 2:13 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2003 4:16 pm
Posts: 75
Location: WARWICK, Q.
Impressive :)

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 Post subject: Re: Intorducing 'Gaijin'
PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 7:17 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:38 pm
Posts: 90
Thanks !




Finally rolled up to the painters.

He reckons 3 weeks to complete the job.

I dropped all the materials off, of which we have;

- bar coat - to join old paints with new in just a few areas,
- etch primer - to cover bare metal in just a few palces, front inner gaurds etc.
- high build primer - to cover all the outside, in prep for the colour after blocking some amount of times
- colour
- clear
- thinners
- hardeners
- masking tape
- etc

the sandblaster did a good job, and took him 36hrs from car entering shop to car being towed out.

he etch primed all the sanblasted areas 30 mins after completing the blast, letting it dry off overnight.

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 Post subject: Re: Intorducing 'Gaijin'
PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:52 am 
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Time to fish oil leave for a couple of weeks and seam seal before the final coats.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (190-210kw @ 15-16psi.)
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6579
M35 Axis Autech


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 Post subject: Re: Intorducing 'Gaijin'
PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 10:05 am 
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SR20Datsun wrote:
Time to fish oil leave for a couple of weeks and seam seal before the final coats.


I have handed over 3 bottles of wax emoiliant to spray inside rails etc

Ill get it sprayed throughout once the paint is on, as any residual wax will hurt paint application.

Dinitrol and its partner wax has been used, bought off the guy supplying whats left of our Navy.


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 Post subject: Re: Intorducing 'Gaijin'
PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 10:17 am 
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Sounds like a plan!
Yes, now that you mention it, I applied the fish oil after the final coats. But seam seal before the final coats...

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (190-210kw @ 15-16psi.)
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6579
M35 Axis Autech


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 Post subject: Re: Intorducing 'Gaijin'
PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 10:52 am 
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yeah agree, i have 3 tubes of Terosol, the flash german goo. that'll head over the primers, before the colour/clears. Plenty of little holes to fill, the sandblaster got a little carried away in places.


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 Post subject: Re: Intorducing 'Gaijin'
PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 6:34 pm 
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Posts: 90
Baz called me and asked for more paint.

A good opportunity to check out the progress.


Upon arriving, my car was the only one there, they said I was an angel with my timing.

- perhaps a large hairy smelly one.

We are up to 1litre of caprithane for the roll cage,

4Litres of base colour, since I will paint all the underside, rear end, cabin etc.

Otherwise they have blocked back some of the panels and body a few times, so its starting to get a smooth skin.

Baz and Clint reckon they are on time to get it out in another 2 weeks.

The rear subframe needs to come out to spray the rear end of the car, covering over the tar based underseal.

They will apply some more modern based underseal that is sprayed on, before the colour goes on. This will help minimise stone chip damage underneath.

The wheels, those dodgy black n red stripe jobs, are to get their rubber removed, sanded up, and painted a single colour.

Then we can vote 'the money or the bags', or perhaps the lack of either.




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