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PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2016 10:00 pm 
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Still would be an L series with the KA head ;) how about boost like Tom Wyat III he destroyed everything in SCCA with a snail and holley!
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One truly inspiring Datsun story involves Tom Wyatt III, otherwise known as Turbo Tom. Turbo tom built a rather fast Turbo powered L20b Datsun 510 and entered in the "Walter Mitty" at Road Atlanta one year. The engine developed 275 horsepower at 21 pounds of boost for drag racing, with 250 more like it on the track. It featured at T04 Rotomaster Turbo and 4150 Holley carb set up.

As the story goes, SCCA officials started him out in class with similar style cars, but had to keep moving up in class as he blew the doors off each increasingly powerful group of cars. By the end of the day he was racing with the Corvettes and Cobras. He beat a Porsche 930 on a lap by nine seconds, and a race prepped 427 Cobra by 3 seconds. The race staff didn't know what to do, so they gave him a custom made trophy instead of embarrassing one of the more prestigious classes.


This was his last effort using KA24e
http://community.ratsun.net/topic/3246- ... /?p=134157


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 11:54 am 
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Hey Dave who did you get to make up your tailshaft for your 6 speed box.
I'm getting a bellhousing made up at the momnet so I need to sort the tailshaft.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 10:25 am 
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Gibson Driveshaft Services in Edgeworth (Newcastle).

As well as just making a tailshaft of the correct length with S1 front yoke and 1600 rear, they converted the S15 yoke to use a replaceable uni joint. Apparently the standard S15 ones are staked in and not serviceable. Mine was a bit notchy and needed replacing.

I have snce been told that R31 auto (and probably Commodore VL auto) yokes are the same and that one or the other of them are serviceable. All rumour, I can't personally confirm.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 12:30 pm 
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Thanks Dave I'll give them a call.
I have a r31 auto tail shaft and can confirm that the yoke fits a s15 6 speed box and the unis are replaceable.
That's what I'm using for the conversion.
The 1600 tail shaft i was going to use has a few dings in the tube so they will probably need to make a full new tail shaft and just use the flange off the 1600 tail shaft.

You don't remember what length you had it made do you.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 2:37 pm 
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No, sorry. I can get under the car tonight with a tape measure if you want.

Actually, you might be better measuring yours in case your bellhousing is different to mine, which would affect the required length. I worked mine out by measuring the length of both gearboxes, working out the difference between the S15 and the old 5 speed, then altering the tailshaft by that amount.

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1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 7:59 pm 
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Yeah I'll just measure the box when I get the bell housing back.
Jamie Waterhouse is doing the bell housing cut n shut.
I spoke to the guy at Gibson today, great guy. He said a shorten and balance is around $170
Or a full new tailshaft with a new tube r31 auto yoke weld on and datto rear flange welded on balanced tailshaft with new unis will be around $380.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 8:24 pm 
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I paid $300-ish for mine, which included a new serviceable uni joint and whatever mods he needed to do to the S15 yoke for this to work, plus shortening and balancing. Yeah, nice bloke.

If you don't mind, when you get the bellhousing back from Jamie Waterhouse could you measure it's length and PM me the details ? Just curious if its similar to what I worked out and used for mine (250mm for anyone interested)

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1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 7:09 am 
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Yeah mate will do.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 11:54 pm 
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Finally got around to doing some work on the old girl recently. Fitted a passenger seat and harness, and made the driver's seat adjustable again, up till now it was simply bolted to the floor in the correct spot for me, which meant it wasn't easy for others with longer or shorter legs to drive it. Not a problem up till now, but the youngest daughter is getting into motorsport in my MX5 and I'd like her to be able to use the 1600 at some point. She had a go at the motorkhana at the Nissan Datsun nationals at Easter in both the Sydney Datsun Club owned "club car" (availabale for club members to use) and was also lucky enough to get offered a drive of a 300ZX. Unfortunately I wasn't able to spend much time helping her (I was acting as Clerk of Course) and she didn't get much seat time as she volunteered as timekeeper when we were short of officials.

I'm also at a crossroads with the old 1600. Do I stick with "budget" motorsport, or spend some coin on getting it going faster ? Heading back to Bathurst in November, it would be nice to be able to keep up with a few cars up and down the mountain rather than have them fly past. Decision, decisions.

Only thing that is certain is that I'll leave it till the last minute, then be rushing around to make it to Bathurst in time, same as my last two trips there.......

vvvvv Chloe in SDC club car. Real family affair pic, with the wife in the background ignoring her duties as official on the other motorkhana course to grab some pics of the daughter :roll: I suppose I should be grateful that the better half offered to help out.

Attachment:
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vvvvvv And in another competitor's 300ZX, much appreciated :thumbsup:

Attachment:
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c2.jpg [ 93.29 KiB | Viewed 104 times ]

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 12:09 am 
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What does your class allow you to do as far as the engine is concerned Dave? Would some bigger carbies and head work be enough or are you thinking of an engine upgrade?

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'81 RX-7 - 12A, coilovers, 4.1 Torsen LSD - daily
'74 RX-2 - 13B bridgeport, 4.44 LSD - cruiser
'82 Hilux - 350 Chev, 4.3 Detroit Locker, 33s - 4WD

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Green200B has forgotten more about 200Bs than we will ever know.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 12:32 am 
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I usually slot into "Type 3 - Competition vehicles based on Group 3J - Improved Production Cars" in supersprints (depending on the organising club's supp regs). So realistically, anything I want to do / can afford to do would be acceptable. Improved Production allows you to run any engine of the same format from the same manufacturer, so any Nissan 4 cylinder is eligible.

For regularity, there isn't any real notion of "classes".

Headwork and carbs would help a little, but if I'm doing that, should I go all the way ? I'm thinking I'll have a chat to a "real" engine builder this time rather than going DIY - was very impressed with James Flett from MIA and his Group S zed at the nationals, second fastest car from memory, and still running stock brakes / SU carbs / all the other limitations that come with competing in Production Sports Car racing so may see what he can offer.

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1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 12:52 am 
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And my latest "tool" being built.

Looking to turn all my scrap aluminium into useful things. Or end up in hospital with severe burns.

Attachment:
IMG_0069.JPG
IMG_0069.JPG [ 100.54 KiB | Viewed 98 times ]

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 11:30 pm 
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Metal foundry time! For the past 12 months I've been checking out YouTube vids on them.
You'll have to tell me how it goes because I've really considered building of myself and probably will In the future!
Thanks for your updates too!

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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