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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 3:29 pm 
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Looking good mate :thumbsup:

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120Y 2DOOR SEDAN Z18TURBO

MY 120Y http://o/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=9796

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 7:53 pm 
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Wow that's amazing Nik! I love the attention to detail, incredible!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 5:22 pm 
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Finally the car is moving under it's own power instead of me pushing it around everywhere.
I took it for a quick drive to test the oil cooler fitment and the new diff and it seems all is in order.
Now to clock a few bedding in k's to make sure it's all good before completing the other mods ready for track work.

Oil cooler ducting shows the inlet which is ready for the front spoiler to be ducted in (I haven't completed this). Temperatures seem pretty good while taking it for a quick drive around. Oil temperature saw around 90 degC and water was only 85ish. I think the thermo fan only kicked in once or twice when I was stuck in traffic. It will be interesting to see how it behaves with some serious load on it and some air pumping through the cooler.
All radiator ducts/guides seem to be doing the job.


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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (190-210kw @ 15-16psi.)
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6579
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 7:57 pm 
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Awesome stuff Nik. Drive on Sunday?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 10:07 pm 
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looks great Nik, very well done!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 10:18 pm 
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Nicely done mate


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 11:21 am 
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Thanks gents,

I am going to go for a drive to the brother in-laws on Saturday to watch the F1.
It still needs some work on the rear arches (the tyres rub on bump), which I need to organise soon!

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2017 3:13 pm 
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So progress has been slow. The chief of finance and I have been searching most weekends for a house to live in. It hasn't left much time to work on the car over the last few months.
But here's a progress update on what I have been up to.

Approximately a month or two ago, I was chasing a nasty vibration from the rear end at high speed.
I thought I would run a small aluminium spacer under the diff to try and point it in the right direction and get that pinion angle sorted and at the same time, reduce some of the noise path by having it slightly holey (engineering term..) and reverse the bushes with the thicker one at the top.

Finally tracing to what I think is the answer: The tyres had flat spots on them from sitting for so long in one spot. I measure this using a dial gauge after measuring everything else that rotated. The tyres are at least 5 years old and have spent a fair chunk of that sitting on a garage under load. Time for new ones I think... Trent has pointed me towards something like the Toyo R888R. Looks like an awesome semi-slick. A little softer than the Federal 595RSR's I currently have.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2017 3:42 pm 
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The next step was to reduce the tyre rub on the rear guards.

Due to the big job of changing the geometry on the semi-trailing arm rear end, when designing it all up, I decided at the time I would run a wider track. This was instead of running staggered offset wheels front to rear as I would like to rotate my tyres to get more track time. (oh the irony...)

This modification would hopefully provide greater stability and importantly pump out the rear a little and make it look fatter as I was never happy with the rears looking that little bit tucked in.

I tried as hard as I could to try and predict the rubbing on the rear guards, but didn't succeed. Predicting the suspension travel through the revised bump/rebound arc, increase of track, tyre deflection, and camber/toe changes was just too much for me to get my head around without modelling up the inside of the rear guard tub. So once the job was done I kind of expected a small amount of rubbing. Using washers to space the wheels on the original rear end and going through suspension travel can only get you so far.

Turned out I was right.

I would go over a bump and the outside of the tyre would chew out and rub a little on the hump in the sheet metal up in the guard which allows the rear door to sit flush.
Quite a few Datto owners have made this modification to achieve greater rubber width, so I thought I would do the same.
I also noticed the people who had done this previously were fairly large in their testicular fortitude to start cutting their car up. Now I have cut my fair share of this car up previously, but this was visible and I wanted to leverage someone who had done this before. Luckily I knew of someone...
A trip off to Lachlan (Lurch on here) and his company: Classic Auto Fabrication.
I knew Lachy had done this before on another one of his clients cars that I had seen in the flesh and it was a very professional outcome.
Lachy worked his magic and got it pretty much close to perfect. He even let me help! If anyone is going to attempt anything like this, Lachlan is your man.

A quick coat of zinc primer by myself (whilst peeling off dead 2K white paint) and I was off on my way home.
I then booked the car in at a paint shop my usual painter (Bruce) recommended as he was extremely busy. The company was Motorvation in Bayswater, Victoria. They have done a fantastic job, matched the paint perfectly and it looks like it's OEM. An excellent outcome. Now my tyres don't rub at full bump!


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2017 10:41 pm 
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Wow nice work i seen a mate do this before but it didn't really make sense to me at the time. Did it make a big difference?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2017 11:18 am 
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Yes, it made at least 8-10mm difference each side which is perfect for me.
It was pretty cool, the tyres were actually wearing a mark on the inside of the steel which showed how much material needed to be removed.
The problem doesn't exist now which is an excellent outcome.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2017 10:53 pm 
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Very nice, Lurch is a gun! I want to do this to mine one day, will definitely go and see him when the time comes.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 4:37 pm 
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