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 Post subject: Re: Hatchmans 1600 Build
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 10:03 am 
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I'm running a CAT for the SR20DET in my 1600, but I don't have to run the charcoal cannister (Go figure?)
I've spoken to a few others and they were saying they aren't running a CAT.
It doesn't make any difference to power if you get a low restriction version. They can clog up though!

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (190-210kw @ 15-16psi.)
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 Post subject: Re: Hatchmans 1600 Build
PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 11:20 pm 
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Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
Hatchman wrote:
Very minor quick update. Datsun is currently at the mechanics getting some last checks before the RWC. Some things we missed were

Needed a vented battery box for the boot mounted battery
Breather hose for the fuel (I think) was running into the boot
Needs a catalytic converter (I know WTF right as it's an L20B). Reason is because the engine number matches to an S1 (or S2 I forget) Bluebird our mech says it has to have a cat. Apparently that is the letter of the rules!
Some wiring corrections
Rear retractable seatbelts (we'll fit those, I think Datsport do them?)


Vented battery box only needed if your not using a sealed battery. Nearly all are sealed batteries these days.
Breather hose for the fuel tank (if you mean the small one) factory routs through the boot floor and terminates in the chassis rail. This is the regulation, it has to terminate in a rail and not direct to atmosphere.
Pretty sure that the cat converter is needed if that was original equipment on the L20b. You need to comply with the emissions requirements of the engine your fitting. In the case of the l20b, it was after the 1976? emissions requirements were introduced. Not sure that they ran a cat converter though. If you can find an l20b that was pre standards I'd use that as the benchmark.
Wiring, well that's a necessity!
You went fine retractable rear belts. Only fixed. Std oem for fronts are fixed sash also. Retractable belts are the modern luxury!

Good luck.
Ps. What centre consol have you fitted? It looks neat!
Great work on the seat rails. That's what's needed with these cars. I'm about to fit new seats to mine when i work out how to fit them up properly!

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Hatchmans 1600 Build
PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2017 8:43 pm 
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Location: Mornington Peninsula
RJB510 wrote:
Vented battery box only needed if your not using a sealed battery. Nearly all are sealed batteries these days.
Breather hose for the fuel tank (if you mean the small one) factory routs through the boot floor and terminates in the chassis rail. This is the regulation, it has to terminate in a rail and not direct to atmosphere.
Pretty sure that the cat converter is needed if that was original equipment on the L20b. You need to comply with the emissions requirements of the engine your fitting. In the case of the l20b, it was after the 1976? emissions requirements were introduced. Not sure that they ran a cat converter though. If you can find an l20b that was pre standards I'd use that as the benchmark.
Wiring, well that's a necessity!
You went fine retractable rear belts. Only fixed. Std oem for fronts are fixed sash also. Retractable belts are the modern luxury!

Good luck.
Ps. What centre consol have you fitted? It looks neat!
Great work on the seat rails. That's what's needed with these cars. I'm about to fit new seats to mine when i work out how to fit them up properly!


Dad spoke to Baz at Datsport and reckons fixed rear seatbelts are fine. We spoke to our mechanic and he said he'd confer with the engineer. Apparently they are a real bitch to fit in a 1600 so if we can avoid that I would be very happy!

Centre console is from a 240K, we've had it for years, used to be in our old black 1600 that is now the "designated parts car". Bit of vinyl spray treatment made it come up very good.

For the seat rails we just got some decent steel, bent it, drilled it and bolted the extension with high-tensile bolts to the original rails. I agree they are essential. I'm only 177cms but in a car like this my knees are knocking on the steering wheel.


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 Post subject: Re: Hatchmans 1600 Build
PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 2:31 pm 
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So we got the Engineers cert and the car is ready to go

Mechanic put it on the dyno to give it a final tune and traces of water which seem to be coolant is coming out the exhaust. It's an L20B that was rebuilt 2 years ago and has never been driven in anger.

I dearly hope it is the head gasket and not the head itself as it had a fair bit of work done to it

Shattered. We were so close


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 Post subject: Re: Hatchmans 1600 Build
PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 4:17 pm 
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Fairly easy to check.
Have you done a leak down test?
Head gasket is an easy fix, head is not as easy as you have to find it, weld it (if you can access it), machine it and go from there.
Hopefully you find out and it's an easy fix!
Have you re-torqued the head?

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (190-210kw @ 15-16psi.)
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6579
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 Post subject: Re: Hatchmans 1600 Build
PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 10:39 pm 
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How did you know it was coolant. Engines can emit quite a bit of condensation when it's humid. I wouldn't pull the head off until your sure there is a problem

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 Post subject: Re: Hatchmans 1600 Build
PostPosted: Sat Jun 10, 2017 11:14 am 
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lampy wrote:
How did you know it was coolant. Engines can emit quite a bit of condensation when it's humid. I wouldn't pull the head off until your sure there is a problem


Dad spoke to the mechanic and he did a dye test on the engine and the results were not what he was expecting i.e. points to something being wrong. He's pretty thorough on this stuff so I think he wants to remove the head to be sure.

My hope is that just to it being dormant for so long while being restored condensation has built up in the fuel tank/lines/carbs etc... and maybe that is the reason.

I hope so....


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 Post subject: Re: Hatchmans 1600 Build
PostPosted: Sat Jun 10, 2017 11:18 am 
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SR20Datsun wrote:
Fairly easy to check.
Have you done a leak down test?
Head gasket is an easy fix, head is not as easy as you have to find it, weld it (if you can access it), machine it and go from there.
Hopefully you find out and it's an easy fix!
Have you re-torqued the head?


Not sure on this stuff mate, our mechanic is pretty thorough and knows his stuff (Frank at APS in Frankston). As mentioned he did a dye test which did not come back with the results he was expecting.

I'm sweating bullets on this I don't mind admitting, we've put a lot of money and effort into this little car, another big bill is not really ideal


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 Post subject: Re: Hatchmans 1600 Build
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 12:12 pm 
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Good luck and keep us in the loop on what has happened.

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 Post subject: Re: Hatchmans 1600 Build
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:15 pm 
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Spoke to the mech yesterday, he is of the belief it is the head gasket and has been talking with the engine builder. Said he was going to pull the head off today to take a look but I know he is really busy so not expecting much news this week which is okay


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 Post subject: Re: Hatchmans 1600 Build
PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2017 9:26 pm 
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Latest news is the mechanic is certain it's the head gasket but he has sent the head back to the engine builder to check it properly for any cracks just to be sure


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 Post subject: Re: Hatchmans 1600 Build
PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 11:06 am 
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Good. I hope it's a quick fix!

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