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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 11:35 am 
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Nice pick-up on the seats, Ross. I think good seats are a really important part of a car, and I'm kicking myself for only addressing it now, and not years ago. From what I've seen it looks like alandatsomefun's way is definitely best practice, but also the most work. Guess it depends on how you want to do it.

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 5:02 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2005 4:23 pm
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Location: Blue Mountains
WRX seats sit really high on 1600 rails.


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 9:12 pm 
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Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
Completely agree Anth! I'm really happy with these seats, they were a price i couldn't go past and they feel much more comfortable. I really wasn't happy with the ones that are in there currently, but when i built my car, I actually couldn't find any seats. All the importers didn't have any that would work on the datsun so i had to just get something. So i bought the 'Drift' ones cheap so i could just stick them in there to get the car on the road.
These seem a bit more complex to fit, but not impossible. I haven't worked out how i'm going to do it yet, but i have spent a lot of time looking at the rails and thinking of ideas. Either way, it'll be an opportunity for me to use the welder again!

Hi Rhys,
What rails do you mean?

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 4:14 pm 
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The Sparco Pro 2000's I used bolted straight on to factory 180B rails (had to buy side mounts and drill them to suit) and position the seat right in the middle of the steering wheel. No clearance issues to the trans tunnel or B-Pillar!
Plus they are tested to conform with the ADR's when signed off by an engineer!

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Sun Jun 11, 2017 2:01 pm 
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Ok, So i've sat the seat into the car to mock up how I can make it fit, looks like its going to require a lot of work. I'm not against that. I am questioning if it is worth it.

The Rails are fully integrated on the GDA seats. So no unbolting and using the original 1600 slides with an adapter frame.
Because they sit approximately 25mm higher than the originals, they will need to be lowered slightly.
The rails also start approximately 45mm behind the front of the seat. Therefore, the original seat mount on the front will need to be moved back to get the required leg room.

I think what I would need to do is this:
Modify the inboard mount (cut it and weld a tab to the base), then bolt that to the transmission tunnel as per Subaru type design.
This will lower the seat enough and pull the seat in as far as it can go on the transmission tunnel. I can then use the original rear mount on the outboard rail to bolt directly to the Datsun floor (which should take the floor pan difference into consideration).
Then I will need to make a new front mount to bolt he front of the seat onto.
Cut off the original Datsun rails.
Work out if Klippan make WRX seat belt receivers that will fit their belts and then bolt them onto the seat as per WRX style.
Make sure its all reinforced and solid.
Engineer the seat mounts again.

Here are the pics of what I'm talking about:
Attachment:
File comment: Mock up of the seat install.
20170611_114233.jpg
20170611_114233.jpg [ 92.6 KiB | Viewed 2391 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: Notice that the rails start behind the seat. Necessitates the seat to be mounted further back than original for leg room.
20170611_114337.jpg
20170611_114337.jpg [ 132.73 KiB | Viewed 2391 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: Inboard Mount that would need to be cut, then can be bolted straight onto the transmission tunnel. Will probably weld on a captive nut with reinforcement.
20170611_120354.jpg
20170611_120354.jpg [ 369.64 KiB | Viewed 2391 times ]
Attachment:
20170611_120227.jpg
20170611_120227.jpg [ 148.85 KiB | Viewed 2391 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: If I don't, then the seat sits every so slightly too high.
20170611_120023.jpg
20170611_120023.jpg [ 167.99 KiB | Viewed 2391 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: Will then be able to move the steel spacers from under the outboard mount and bolt this directly onto the floor. Again, reinforced etc.
20170611_120106.jpg
20170611_120106.jpg [ 216.31 KiB | Viewed 2391 times ]


Thoughts?

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
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Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 9:45 pm 
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How you tracking with the seats Ross?


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2017 11:15 am 
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Well, I've decided to consult an engineer to see the cost of re-engineering the seat mounts before I go ahead with it. If its too much, then i'll just get different seats that I can use my existing mounts for, because they have already been certified.

I do have all my measurements worked out. For those who are playing at home.
The Datsun floor pan is 20mm higher on the transmission tunnel side, to the outside. (according to my quick measurement of the seat brackets)
The Rear Subaru inboard seat runner is 10mm taller than the outside (the outside is the flat one that bolts straight down onto the floor).
So. Simple maths tells me that I need to subtract 30mm from the inboard runner (off the tab in the photo).

The front is similar, but its 10mm longer on the outside compared to the inside.

Definitely need to make new front mounts and relocate the seat rearwards.

My concern is that modifying the rear mount will make the seat sit too low at the back. So if i go ahead with this, then i'll take 20mm off first, then space the other side by 10mm and see how it fits.

I honestly have no idea how you can fit this seat any other way unless you are very short. Mounting on the original rail (even if you cut off the subaru mounts which i was initially going to do) will put the seat way too high. My head was almost touching the roof. If you lower the seat at the back to compensate, then your knees will be in the air!

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
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Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2017 4:29 pm 
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Location: sydney
I have wrx seats in mine and they do sit high if i have a helmet on my head hits the roof


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2017 4:37 pm 
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Are they this model of seat? I'm keen to check out some pictures of it is. I've sat in the earlier gc8 seats which were modded to fit in std rails and they were fine.

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Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 7:52 am 
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Yea they are the earlier seats from the 99/2000 model


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 8:43 pm 
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Good plan to check that stuff out first Ross, that way you know where you stand with it

Hope you can get it sorted and cruising again soon!


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 12:12 pm 
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So i got my diff back off the rebuilder who took 3 months to get around to fixing it.
He said it was pretty worn but thought he could get it ok. He ended up needing to fit new front and rear bearings but said the pilot bearing was ok so left it. Side carrier bearings were new.
Turns out it's only marginally better. Whines from 60k/hr up now instead of 50. No change with a 80/140 weight oil either. He said he set it up for feel rather than a pattern because he said the pattern was too bad on the drive side.
So now I've got a rebuilt 3.9 ratio R200 with new bearings and a stuffed gearset.

So after having a chat with Matt (MY110) i bit the bullet and bought a 4.44 helical R180 from an 09 WRX and snapped up some short nose R180 diff axles that snap into the centre to get me going while i source anther gearset for my R200. which is proving difficult!
I'll pull the cover off the back of the new diff and check the ring gear for any signs of abuse or wear that my diff builder showed me and then ill putt it all back together and see if i lose traction in 2nd with the low ratio!

On another note. Because i don't drive my car, and always had issues with quite firm brakes. I unbolted the mc from the booster to adjust the pushrod clearance and noticed this out the back...
Attachment:
20170817_195010-1512x2016.jpg
20170817_195010-1512x2016.jpg [ 560.9 KiB | Viewed 2045 times ]

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 1:29 pm 
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It looks like rust? Have you had any moisture such as rain getting in there, or is it where water has accumulated and managed to find its way past the seal? Perhaps it's osmosis; the moisture manages to get past the seal but the brake fluid doesn't :D
What other stuff would make that colour?

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 2:19 pm 
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Rust and gunk.
Yeah. I've no idea and never seen it before. I've seen weeping brake fluid but not this.
I know it's not the brake booster as it was rebuilt a few years back. It was fine then. It definitely looks like it has leaked down the back of the mc. I think your probably right. Moisture might have gotten into the brake somehow and its rusted the piston?

I've got a new mc and also a rebuild kit on the way so ill pull it all apart and see what's going on.

Didn't make any real difference to the brake feel. But i definitely know that i can push the piston in with a screw driver about 7mm or more before i feel pressure like the brakes are now grabbing. I'd like to try and sort that out.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:14 pm 
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Hey Ross. Are the new MC expensive? Might be worth throwing a new one in.

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