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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2017 10:31 am 
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OEM is the way to go mate, can't wait to get rid of my adapters and generic CVs one day.

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2017 8:01 pm 
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Coming along nicely Ross!


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 8:01 pm 
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Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
Little bit of an Australia Day update:

After lunch i managed to get the old r180 out. Took a bit of work, one of the spacers was jammed under the diff so it wouldn't budge forward so i struggled to get the moustache bar off. Also might have put it on upside down when installing originally so it doesn't want to drop below the pins. Anyway... it's out.

Turned out that my rear crossmember wasn't the r200 ready version. Some work with the angle grinder and die grinder sorted that out.
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Then i went ''that'll do'' and packed up for the night.
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Next job will be to make the moustache bar. Just got to decide what thickness Steel i want to use. It'll be braced pretty solidly.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 8:08 pm 
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Oh, but before all that i assembled my axles. Silastic added to the rear hat too.
Attachment:
20170114_155609-2016x1512.jpg
20170114_155609-2016x1512.jpg [ 707.36 KiB | Viewed 1992 times ]

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 8:59 am 
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RJB510 wrote:
...Turned out that my rear crossmember wasn't the r200 ready version. ...


I feel for you on this mate. Those bloody R200's are heavy damn things and jamming one in there and then pulling it out finding it didn't fit would have been a PITA.
Did you follow the little tutorial I did about the removal of material in this area?

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 9:33 am 
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Oh mate, PITA!
I ended up setting it on a jack and got a second pair of hands to assist with lifting it while i manoeuvred it into position.

No i didn't, I'll have a sticky beak though because you have probably done something better than mine! I had an old crossmember that i previously modified to fit the diff into, so i had a good idea of what metal needed to be removed and i basically just copied that.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2017 11:41 am 
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So after a really hot Friday off work.
Attachment:
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I finally got the big diff installed.
8" of Nissan R200 with S15 helical centre.
New bearings and set my own backlash and preload.
Built my own moustache bar with new Whiteline bushes.
Attachment:
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20170213_113312-1955x1465.jpg [ 733.02 KiB | Viewed 1945 times ]

Built my own axles with shortened shafts (would have got my ones cut down but it's been 12 months since i started putting this thing together i needed to just get it done!)
All new bolt hardware.
We'll soon see if I'm any good at rebuilding diffs :shock:
Still yet to drive it though.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2017 11:49 am 
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Nice work Ross. I will be very interested to know how it drives!

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2017 10:08 pm 
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That's fantastic Ross, great work. Hows the exhaust going?

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 10:52 am 
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Turns out something isn't right in the diff. Could be a busted bearing that i haven't replaced. Actually i think that's what it is. Has a nice whine at about 50km/hr up.

The diff was bought off a guy who i suspect used it for drag stuff. It had a welded up centre but all the preload was off the pinion gear.

I noticed that when i torqued it up again, it added way too much preload to the bearings that made it difficult to turn the pinion flange without a socket on the nut for assistance. I decided to replace some bearings at that point.

I replaced the rear pinion bearing (closest to the crownwheel) because i thought that bearing would be the one to flog out first (it was exactly the same height as the old one in the race). But it was still too tight so i only torqued the preload to about 55 ft lb. After speaking with a few guys, i think that the conical piece and the spacer between the front and rear pinion bearings is too short, allowing too much force to be applied to the bearings.

Once i added the centre i could only set the backlash using the shims i had.

It was on the high end of the tolerance and i think that would contribute to some of the noise also. Wipe pattern and mesh looked central so i was happy with that.

Without a bigger selection of shims and spacers i don't think I'll get this thing setup right, so unfortunately (and disappointingly) I'll probably have to take it to someone to look at.

Trent, no movement on the exhaust yet. I'm not sure if i mentioned but i took the car to performance exhaust centre and spoke with the owner who has a very nice black 1600, he suggested putting the std manifold back on. Basically said that not only will my stainless one crack eventually, it's also not designed for the turbo i have (t28) and the whole inlet and outlet of the engine will contribute to its overall sound.
He also said that they flow well enough standard anyway so unless I'm making over 250rwkw then it won't impact upon my final power figure.

So that's next. But when i do that, i also want to take the head off and fix the oil leak coming out of the timing cover... will replace the head gasket with a metal cosworth one (when i work out who supplies them) and probably do a bit of head work while it's off...


That's the plan :)

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 4:16 pm 
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Nice work Ross,

Shame about your diff, but that's modified cars isn't it!
Hope you can get it sorted without too many dramas

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 5:52 pm 
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Thanks mate and yes, you're right. I just like being able to do things myself. Unfortunately i don't have enough stuff to sort this one out i don't think.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 8:54 am 
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It's certainly frustrating isn't it Ross. I had a similar saga with my old R200 diff, but I didn't touch it!
I hope you get it all sorted!

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 11:22 pm 
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So i've never really been happy with my seats. I bought them because i just wanted to get the car registered. But over time (and i mean i've travelled about 6000km only in my car since i've had it on the road) the cheap foam has begun to break down and you can feel the side steel bolsters. They really aren't that great.

I have only just this weekend, picked up a set of wrx seats that look to be in really great condition and I got them nice and cheap. So next on the "fix things that you don't like on your car" projects, i'll be replacing the seats with the WRX items. I'm just mulling over how i'm going to fit them. Either modify the rails similar to what alandatsomefun has done (or my own derivative), or change the brackets on the seat to allow them to bolt to the OEM Datsun slides.
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Unfortunatley, they're not as easy a fit as my last lot or the RX7 seats that I swapped into my first 1600 in... 2005! damn, 12 years, its been that long!

The front seat support sits about 440mm wide as opposed to 415mm for the original Datsun slides. The subaru seats are also offset slightly on the slides. I'm not sure if the original datsun seats are offset also, but i certainly pushed my ones in slightly to allow them to line up with the steering wheel a bit more.

I'm not sure how much work i'm going to create for myself just yet. Whilst i like the idea of using the OEM Subaru slides and making brackets. I don't want to have to drill and create new holes in my seat rails and weld up the old ones. It would be much easier though.

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Whilst these seats look better and fit nicer and more comfortable, the down side is that they're much heavier too.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


Last edited by RJB510 on Wed Apr 19, 2017 10:42 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 11:32 pm 
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Oh, and I re-trimmed my boot (another tick of the list of 'fix the things you don't like about your datsun'. I boxed it in so that you can't see the rear lights and i've made two covers identical to cover my battery and fuel pumps. It looks much nicer. It also looks much smaller now, but really, the use-able space is identical, i just filled in all the little gaps. Pic:
Attachment:
20170419_081656-2016x1512.jpg
20170419_081656-2016x1512.jpg [ 780.66 KiB | Viewed 1654 times ]


I need to for it a vacuum and fix up the lower boot mat, but that's about it.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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