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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 9:04 pm 
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When i did my engine bay i used paint stripper for the large sections and then used a wire wheel on a drill around all the seems, i didn't like the idea of the paint stripper getting into all the nooks and crannies were i couldn't clean it out properly. I didn't have any problems with scratch marks showing through, and i only high filled the sections that were repaired. I suppose if you used the wire wheel with as little pressure as possible you shouldn't have a drama.

Trying to remember what holes i filled on my sr 510, i think the main things i filled were the two holes were the throttle linkage bolted up and were the lever assembly came through the firewall ( i made my own cable setup to replace it). I'm pretty sure i left the heater hose holes were they were. Also removed the bracket in the middle of the firewall were the brake line block is bolted, it was going to be a bit close back of the head for my liking.

SR hey :twisted: , have you decided wich series you will go with?

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 9:07 pm 
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ill buy a set of those handles if you make some more :)

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 9:11 pm 
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bad510 wrote:
When I did my engine bay I used paint stripper for the large sections and then used a wire wheel on a drill around all the seems, I didn't like the idea of the paint stripper getting into all the nooks and crannies were I couldn't clean it out properly.


Same here.

If you strip it back to bare metal, scratches won't be an issue.

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 9:13 pm 
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Thanks Fella's, i'll give it a go then. Was going to sand blast the seams. Get all the stuff out of there. Then fish oil the beast out of it. Then seal them with (you guessed it) seam sealer) then paint on top, should protect it pretty good. Don't want any paint stripper near there however.

And no. I haven't. Between S14det. Or N/A Turbo Block with a Neo Head (SR20VE head). Apparently it tries to copy Honda's Mugen Heads (haha, good luck!). Has adjustable Cam timing on Inlet and Exhaust (not just inlet) and adjustable duration and lift. Apparently with some mods and a bit of compression it will hit about 135 RWKW but with bucket loads of torque and power when you want it. According to the guy at SSS. So undecided. Will decide soon though, because i'll need to fit an intercooler if I go turbo before paint. But it will be a small one. I want that discreet look (Thinking something like overall size of 400 wide by 300 high) and don't want to hack the front of my car up.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 9:14 pm 
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Deal on the handles, I'll see what I can come up with!

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 4:38 pm 
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The problem with the VE head is that they are designed for a FWD, so at the back of the head is either a dizzy sticking out or oil pressure solenoids to activate the VTEC!

so more room will be required at the back of the head and then there is all the fiddling around with modifying the FWD head to suit the RWD, like oil drain, inlet manifold, cooling system changes

If you have the money to waste, go for it, but the gains are not worth the extra cost

Stick with a tried and tested S13/14/15 SR20,

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 4:43 pm 
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Yeah, I was aware that you needed to change the dizzy, wasn't aware of the rest of the fiddling around however, you're taking the head only, I'd have thought that most of the Induction system would just bolt straight on?
But I definitely agree with the case for the cost though.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
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Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 7:47 pm 
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RJB510 wrote:
Yeah, I was aware that you needed to change the dizzy, wasn't aware of the rest of the fiddling around however, you're taking the head only, I'd have thought that most of the Induction system would just bolt straight on?
But I definitely agree with the case for the cost though.


Don't be scared out of it. There are plenty of places providing bolt on gear if you get in trouble.

You can buy the sr20vet cas from japan, an inlet manifold from mazworx. SR20det extractors can be made to fit with a flange change.

Depends what your after, personally a 510 with a nice NA Sr20VE would be a better car than a run of the mill sr20det. once you buy a turbo and upgrade all your sh*t, prices will be similiar.

Cas - approx $300 (or convert your dizzy to cas only)
Oil relocation blocks - $159 US + shipping
Inlet manifold - Cut and reweld the standard, or budget for a new one ($300-500)
Extractors - Depends what route you take, maddat do a set for an sr20 into 510, just get them to put a VE flange on.


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 1:08 pm 
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I wasn't at all trying to talk you out of it, i'd love to see more SR20VE motors going into anything but a FWD car

there is just a lot more custom fab work required over an normal rwd SR20 setup

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 12:50 am 
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So i've finally sprayed the wheel arches on the front of the car now.

Started rubbing down the engine bay. I have decided to sand blast all the seams that I couldn't get to. Once I had done that and blasted out all the rust and stuff, I've liberally coated it (almost the entire engine bay - mainly due to copious amounts in all the chassis rails) of fish oil. Once that dries i'll grind off all the paint and seal all the seams with seam sealer then prime over all of that. Then i'll be able to bog fill the places that need it.

Thats my plan so far.

Progress pics.
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- Notice the many layers of paint.
Engine bay has now been drenched in fish oil In all rails and seams and everywhere. It should hold rust at bay anywhere that I cant get to properly to weld in new metal.

I think i'll fill the upper pockets where the bonnet hinges dock with something good too. I've just sprayed liberally with fish oil, but I might try and do something else. I've also covered it in the drain as well which will be coated again with something else once the fish oil dries properly. No more Rust. I hope.

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 9:44 am 
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I tell you what I noticed...
The strengthening section and the hole cut in the sills!'
Love your work.
Although the hole in the sills might need to be just a little bigger for painting the insides of the sill, but don't do it until you have found a correct sized rubber bung you can stick in there... :D

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 11:21 am 
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Yeah, I made the hole in the sill front the same size as the rubber grommets that sit on the floor pan. And on the inside sills of the car. So I should be able to find them.
Am not planning on painting them just yet. I was just going to fill them with fish oil or something of the sort. And will do that all along the sill through the holes in the floor. The good thing is that i made them out of Gal and ground off just where i was welding. So the insides are totally galvanized and I used Copper Weld through primer where I was welding on the inside. So the only places that will rust will be where I welded them on to the top. Which i will paint or cover with fish oil later on. The outside I can sand back, but there is a good primer that my U-Pol friends have that will prime for Gal panels that are apparently coming out on newer model and top end cars. So i might just leave them gal and wash them down then prime them.

The brace was Just that I had some left over from the rotisserie. Rally guy's normally plate the inside and then brace it with thinner steel, or weld a strap piece on the outside of the A-pillar and top rail, but I figured your way seemed neater and maintained the same surface area so it wouldn't punch a hole in the rails. So I stole it!
But thanks Nick, Its coming along nicely.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


Last edited by RJB510 on Tue Jun 08, 2010 10:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 11:23 am 
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Be careful what seam sealer you use as well - I used Sikaflex 227, put the seam sealer on two weeks ago, sprayed POR15 TieCoat primer over it last weekend, and the primer still isn't dry where it covers the seam sealer :evil:

Not sure if its the sealer, the primer, or the two in combination that caused the issue, but it looks like I'll be removing the seam seal and redoing it.

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 11:30 am 
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Speak to SikaFlex Dave,
I think they recommend you use a 2pac primer as it chemically bonds to the sikaflex. I used 2pac epoxy over my sikaflex, but I primed first then put the sikaflex over that and waited a good 2 weeks. Then final coats of top coat to cover the whole lot.

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 11:42 am 
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The sealer i'm using is "Tiger seal". Its U-Pol's own sealer (practically the same as sikaflex) and designed to go with U-pol paints which is what i'm using for primers and clears. I'm going to go all 2pac (which is epoxy - 2 part) and will get most of my products from U-pol cos that's my friends business who can help me out with some stuff cheap.

This is my plan of attack.
1. Have fish oiled the seams.
2. Will then rub back everything then it was advised to me to do a
3. Dust coat of Etch Primer.
4. Then will seal all of the seams with the tiger seal and do my bogging.
5. Then i'll cover it all with a 2pac primer. Which is a high fill primer that I have.
6. Then rub it back smooth and paint.

The sealer shouldn't cause any problems as its formulated to work with their products and is apparently virtually the same as sika, just cheaper for me than what I can get it at my work (Hardware). But i'll have to wait and see.

Any flaws with this approach do you think?

p.s. What am I going to spray my brake calipers with? Do you need to get heat proof paint. Or can you just use 2pac Base coat and clear them?

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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