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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 5:17 pm 
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Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
So anyway. Short of being lazy or short on time. Which I would like to think i've had neither. (I've had 6 months of playing catch up since i've last worked on this thing)
It was time to make the rotisserie.
I took the Idea from Dave on the forum who made himself quite a nice one - (following the website he based his idea off). And made a few adjustments myself. And it works absolutely beautifully.

The legs are 1300mm long with a centre piece 700mm long (50x50 RHS)
Attachment:
File comment: The Bottom frame.
DSC04163.jpg
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These were solidly welded and then ground flat to allow fitment of the upright piece which is 950mm high. (50x50 RHS)
Attachment:
File comment: My weld shot.
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Once in place, the top was scalloped to allow the rotator housing of 150mm x 65mm 6mm Tube to be set nicely into the steel, and again, welded like a beast to make sure it doesn't move.
Attachment:
File comment: Marking out the Rotator Housing Raduis.
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Attachment:
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After the housing was welded onto the top of the pipe. Ensuring that it is totally square to reduce rotational bind, Gussets were added to assist in taking the force of the car. As this part takes on almost all the weight.
Attachment:
DSC04182.jpg
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Next was the rotator assembly. Which was made out of some 50mm x 4mm gal pipe that I had lying around. was 300mm long. welded onto another piece of 200mm x 50mm RHS for the upright to the car. Gussets were added for strength and also a collar of 30mm x 65mm Pipe was added around the centre rotating piece to act as a bearing face.


Attachments:
File comment: Rotator shaft showing the bearing face and RHS section to hold the car upright in place.
DSC04188.jpg
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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18
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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 5:22 pm 
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After the rotator assembly was made. I added two bolt holes at the end to "Clamp" the upright piece when setting the height. And a drill hole in the side to bolt it up solidly once the final height was found.
Attachment:
File comment: Bolt holes drilled. Nuts were welded on top to hold the 12mm Bolts.
DSC04192.jpg
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I also drilled a hole and welded a nut on top of the rotator housing to put tension on whilst rotating and to support the locking pin. Also assists when lifting the car into position. Locking pin bracket was just an offcut of 25x25 RHS welded onto the rear of the frame.
Attachment:
DSC04197.jpg
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The front assembly was made by drilling appropriate holes for 50mmx 6mm flat bar. and welding this onto 75x20 RHS. it turned out to be about 900mm wide. The brackets were bent into an "L" shape and welded onto the flat bar. The 1000mm 40mm x 40mm RHS was welded perpendicular to this as the attachment for the front.
Attachment:
DSC04219.jpg
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The rear end of the car was made in much the same way. But just using the 75x20 RHS cut long enough for the bumper bolts. was 250mm. Then drilled to fit. 100mm sections were then welded to the end to space it out from the rear. These were then cut off using a spirit level to find plumb. That way the brackets at an angle from the bumper still attach squarely to the rotisserie.
Attachment:
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Attachment:
DSC04218.jpg
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Once that was all on. I could put them both on the frames, to work out where to place the support bar. I worked out that 300mm up the upright and 300mm down the centre leg was perfect for clearance at the lowest setting that the car would be put at. All other brackets for wheels were welded on at this stage also.
Wheels were spaced out 250mm from the frame ends using 40mm x 40mm RHS, and positioned on 6mm flat steel.
Also added two front wheels.


Attachments:
DSC04223.jpg
DSC04223.jpg [ 221.19 KiB | Viewed 3101 times ]

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
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Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18
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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 5:52 pm 
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Final stages of the assembly now. Drilling all the holes.
The locking pin was created by drilling holes in the rear of the rotator shaft to lock it into the 25 x 25 RHS at the back of the upright. Holes were drilled to allow it to be pinned at 45, 90 and 180 degrees. Top and bottom.
Attachment:
DSC04227.jpg
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Once that was done. The Rear bearing face was cut out of another 30mm section of 65mm Tube (same as the rotator housing) This was drilled and tapped to take a 6mm bolt to pin it to the rotator shaft. Thus preventing the rotator shaft from falling out.
Attachment:
DSC04190.jpg
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The slack in the two pipes were overcome by using 50mm PVC pipe, which was sliced and filed down to make sure they fitted snug inbetween the two pipes. And greased up using marine grease.
Attachment:
DSC04225.jpg
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Then it was all assembled and given a coat of rust guard paint which was on special for $4 a can. And this is the final product. I hope I haven't missed anything.
Attachment:
File comment: Final Product.
DSC04228.jpg
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And this is it in use. Looks plenty strong enough. and seems to be holding well.
Attachment:
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Attachment:
DSC04242.jpg
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If i've missed anything or you're not clear on some parts let me know and i'll see if I can fix it.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
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Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 8:07 pm 
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Looks great :thumbsup:

The rotisserie makes things SO much easier, no more lying under a filthy car trying to weld overhead and getting covered in sparks, or trying to clean 40 years of accumulated dirt and grease off it.

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 10:07 am 
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Thanks Dave!
Yeah, its going to be Much easier to do the work on this (always planned on making a rotisserie). I have heaps to do to fix up the bottom of this thing. Not sure where to start its that big. But I think first thing is to fix up the floors that I patched in before. They need some finishing under the car. So i'll start with them. Then work front to back, and see what I come up with.

Whats your opinion on coverings for the bottom of the car? I have heard mixed products that all seem to work equally well.
1. Fish oil mixed in with Bitumin Paint (dad's old rally Nav. used to do that to his cars and they NEVER rusted apparently)
2. POR15 (Because you've done it and it works, I like the sound of not having to worry about rust on the floors for a long time)
3. Raptor Liner or Gravitex (U-Pol truck liner or Body deadener paint).

They're my options. My primary one was to do the Raptor kit. If its good enough for the truck and ute beds and its chip resistant and rust preventative. Then it should be an all in one win. Apparently they use it in the floors of the prison convoy trucks too and its relatively piss and scratch and blood resistant :roll: Not that i'd even think of doing that to my car, but just a side note.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
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Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 12:30 pm 
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Mine is being done as a semi-show car, will only take to the road for cruises, weekend runs, etc and occaisionally will hit the track. I'm actually going to detail the underside and finish it in 2-pac and hope it doesn't chip too badly (which is why I'm using the POR15 as the base - hopefully if the final coat does get stone chips, the POR15 will stop the chip going right through to bare metal)

Fish oil / bitumen mix sounds pretty messy, just had a look at the Raptor stuff and it looks good. The "tintable" version looks interesting :idea:

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 5:17 pm 
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I hate rust.

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 11:31 am 
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Location: Coffs Harbour, NSW
you know that once you have a rottiserie for your car, its no longer a simple project

looks great

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 6:03 pm 
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I know :(

It was always intended from the start to have it on a rotisserie and fix up the underside to have it in perfect condition. Dad wanted it on a rotisserie, I did as well but was also happy to just push it on its side putting a Tire under the B-Pillar, but this way will be much easier, and easier to store with my lack of space. Get to each side easily and at different angles that work for you... So already its been worthwhile.

That combined with my obsessive compulsive nature of trying to make metal work for me. And my hatred of Body Filler is proving to be a lot of work :roll: ... But its coming along nicely. Will look a million bucks once its done... Hopefully

Got so much that needs to be done one the underside though. Even looking at it is overwhelming knowing where to start. But I figure i'll just fix up the big bits I can see. Then the small bits, then smooth it over as best I can. Then go over front to back and bog what needs to be smoothed. Then when thats done. Prime it. Spray it with Raptor (either black or tinted) then I can start to run new fuel lines and brake lines etc.

Thats the plan anyway :)

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
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Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 6:40 pm 
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on the topic of POR-15, I'm having my datto sprayed in KBS coatings, which is basically an aussie version of POR-15....
not sure if you've checked it out or not...


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 7:23 pm 
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I have. I will not use KBS. It may be a good product (I've heard good reports, but Its still based on POR-15), but my supplier for products doesn't support them for some particular reason of theirs. So I won't be either. Its not anything personal to me.

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Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 5:59 pm 
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So I have a fair bit happening this week. Just continual welding and grinding etc to get the underside of the car up to scratch. Which is a massive job in itself. But slowly it is getting there. Two days ago I welded up the rust in the rails.
Attachment:
DSC04239.jpg
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Attachment:
DSC04256.jpg
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Yesterdays job was to weld in new plates into the spare wheel well. I initially started spotting up the rust holes with the mig, Only to discover that each time i tried to weld them up, they got bigger.
Attachment:
DSC04249.jpg
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So eventually welded in plates, and ground it flat, then covered it with bog to smooth it out. It looks bad in the pics, but really its not that thick. I went over it with the drill and flat sanding disk to smooth it out, then it'll be covered with body deadener.
Attachment:
DSC04261.jpg
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Before I bogged it I covered it with Cold Gal. Awesome Primer and will stop it from rusting again. Hopefully.

I also did the same thing with the floor that I replaced. After going over all the welds again on the under side to fill up any holes, I covered the depression with a bit of filler, then sanded it flat just to smooth it out before the body deadener. I tried it with the deadener first, but I could still see weld marks and joins, so opted to skim coat it just to pretty it up a tiny bit.
Attachment:
DSC04262.jpg
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Todays job, I started stripping off the old body deadener and welding up all the pin holes that were in the car from the previous owners attempt to screw the carpet into the floor. I also took a leaf out of SR20Datsun's book and welded in plates to reinforce the seat mounts on the floor. They aren't the prettiest welds, but its not like people are going to be crawling under the car to check them out... Are they.
Attachment:
DSC04265.jpg
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Thats progress so far. Tomorrow I will hopefully be able to grind the rest of the body deadener away. Then coat it all on the underside with Gal Primer. Then I can leave it for a while and fix up any of the other bits that are anoying me. All the dirty work is a killer, but will pay off.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
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Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 6:14 pm 
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So after countless hours with paint stripper, grinding wheel and the sand blaster to get into those tiny hard to reach spots, It came out nice and shiny on the underside with hardly any rust present at all. However, I did discover some more little pin holes in the spare wheel well. Not sure what to do with those yet. But i'll have a ponder.

My rust preventative technique for the underside of my car is as follows.

Step 1. Grind everything off so that its back to raw metal.
Attachment:
DSC04266.jpg
DSC04266.jpg [ 173.09 KiB | Viewed 2943 times ]

Step 2. Prep with Rust Converter, Leave that for a few days to form a chalky oxide layer. Then Wax and grease remove it.
Step 3. Spray with Fish Oil (Liberally) and let drain off. Make sure you get it into the bottom chassis rails and all the places that it would otherwise miss. I used the body deadener gun and just blasted it onto and into every area and any hole that i could find. Then let the excess drain off for a day or so, and let it dry until its tacky or completely dry. Tacky was my preference.
Attachment:
DSC04267.jpg
DSC04267.jpg [ 158.69 KiB | Viewed 2943 times ]

Step 4. Finally I sprayed over the top of that with Gravitex (Body Deadener Paint) I poured a little out and mixed 200ml of standard hardener into this mix also. Practically the same as the Ute Bed liner, but heaps cheaper.
Attachment:
DSC04269.jpg
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Attachment:
DSC04270.jpg
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That stuff can then be primed and painted over the top of. If i want to detail the underside the same as the top. But I doubt I can be bothered.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 8:15 pm 
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My latest work has been with the welder. Again.

Drill the holes for installing the Crush Tubes in the chassis rails.
Attachment:
DSC04275.jpg
DSC04275.jpg [ 149.74 KiB | Viewed 2921 times ]


Also welded in the rail bracing and welded up all the holes on the engine bay side of things. You can see them there in this pic.
Attachment:
DSC04285.jpg
DSC04285.jpg [ 151.3 KiB | Viewed 2921 times ]


Also, found some more rust on the inside where the bonnet hinges dock. Typical place really, but had to be fixed. It was impossible to get the welder in from the front. And the air vent hole was at the wrong angle to fit the gun into.
Attachment:
DSC04290.jpg
DSC04290.jpg [ 51.51 KiB | Viewed 2921 times ]


So drilled a 25mm hole on the top to allow the gun to fit and just filled the holes with the mig. I'll put a rubber grommet in there in-case i want to get to it again later. To fish oil it or whatever.
Attachment:
DSC04292.jpg
DSC04292.jpg [ 103.31 KiB | Viewed 2921 times ]

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 8:20 pm 
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Ok, so now I need to rub down the engine bay. I think I have all the rust side of things covered now.

Anything else and i can mig it up as I go.

Anyway, can anyone tell me if there is any negative side to just using a wire wheel on the grinder to strip the paint off the engine bay? Obviously it will scratch, but will high fill primer fill those scratch marks? Or will they be too deep? A lot of people paint strip it. But the wire wheel is pretty fast at it.

And there are a series of holes on the rear of the firewall that have grommets in them. Should I weld these up? Or use them to hold some sound deadening or heat shield material onto the firewall? Because that could be a good alternative.

Also, on the topic of the firewall, I don't have the engine currently, but decided to go SR. Are there any holes I should weld up or fill in that aren't needed for that engine or any useless holes on the firewall that are unnecessary?

Because that's my next job, then I can start stripping it and priming it! WOOOOOT!

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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