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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 9:20 pm 
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Yeah, is it really worth the effort though. I considered that with the others. But it would be ideal to find something that just doesn’t need work for a change.

Anyway, i was back into the polishing again and had a crack at the rocker cover. Was a little pitted, covered in an inch of old oil. Dents all over it, so that got a bit of a sand and polish too. This time it isn’t the best job. I might have to go back over it again later, i’ll see how i feel... If it bugs me or not seeing a few imperfections on the bit of the motor that you will probably look at the most... Not that it's a heaps bad job.


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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 9:37 pm 
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Gday Ross dato looks great,plenty of hours work in front of u but all very rewarding work.if u want to have a look at wrx seats in a 1600 dave have just retrimed and fitted some to a 16 we have at work and your more than welcome to have a look . jason


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 6:00 pm 
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Thanks Jason, those seats look for what they are, Dave's done a nice job on the trim of that thing. I'll keep on looking around, because i don't need anything straight away.

Ok, there has been a relative lack of progress up till now. But i started grinding the rear of the sill at the Dog leg to find out if there was any cancer there.
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File comment: This is how it looked before hand.
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File comment: This is what I discovered falling out.
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File comment: This is what was left over for me!
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This is the result.

SO thats basically means the whole sill needs to be replaced and the Dog leg patched at the rear.

But i'm trying to get my head around it, if i was to do it myself. Seen a couple of posts on this site about doing it, but i'm a little hazy still.
I could patch the front and the rear, or i could just cut the whole thing off and replace it all. Which is what i've seen other people do.
If i get my understanding correct. You drill out the spot welds on the top.
Attachment:
File comment: Drill out these spot welds top and bottom all along the sill. Where it meets the seam.
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Do the same for the bottom. And this is where it gets a little tricky for me.
When you come across the B-pillar and where the sill joins this, what are you meant to do?
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I was thinking cut along these weld lines Carefully (probably use the dremmel) and drill out the spot welds at the back? Do this where it buts up to the rear dog leg, where it sits under the b-pillar (Pictured) and where it meets and sits under the a-pillar and extends to the front where the guard bolts onto it (below).

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File comment: Front section of sill where it goes under the A-pillar and extends to the front where the guard bolts on.
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    1. I'm assuming you drill out the spot welds on the back. and then cut the small seam welds they have where the b-pillar meets the sill. Then the sill should just drop out.
    Correct?
    2. Then, how do you hold the b-pillar inplace, or does it stays there under its own strength with the doors off?
    3. Then get a new section folded up to the same specs as the original, but slightly thicker metal for ease of welding, and structural integrity.
    4. Just need to work out how to measure it properly, and find the correct way to jig it if necessary. Make sure it is aligned properly (probably measure it based on original) Then weld the new one back on with Plug welds where i drilled out the original spot welds.

If anyone has done it before, it would be good to clarify this method. Dunno if i'll attempt this myself. But we'll see. There could be a much easier method?
Such as pay someone, but that takes all the fun out of it and the learning from it also.

Then it leaves me free with fresh metal on the sills on the inside (if i need to replace it, part i do) to weld the floor back together.

What do you all think? Worth having a go?
How much could i possibly stuff it up?

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 11:32 am 
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Ok, its been a while, and I've decided to get my act into gear and with latest Tax refund. Went and bought myself a Mig welding package. And have since taken to doing the repairs on the car.
So first job was to fix the inside bottom of the A-pillar. This serves as a structural member, and also needs to be done for the inside floor replacement, and lower A-pillar sill section.


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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 11:43 am 
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This then allowed a good solid base for the Lower A-Pillar rust to be fixed.

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File comment: Cut the old one off.
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File comment: All removed.
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File comment: Just made a template as best i could off the other one, then bent a piece of steel around the metal curve, and welded in place.
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File comment: Held in place enough to tack weld it, Lined up perfectly. Was quite happy with this. Pretty easy job.
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File comment: All ground down nice and smooth... or near enough under a guard. Looks better than the Bog filled one used before.
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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 12:05 pm 
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And now the fun part starts... The floor.

Had to mark out the old one. Used a make shift brace to ensure that the rails didn't move in with the floor removed. They didn't and the brace was hardly used.
Also installed a scissor jack under the gearbox X-member to take the weight. Which later fell over so i'm assuming that didn't have much weight bearing on it either that would have affected the floor.
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Once this was marked and cut, i had to remove the floor in two sections. Had to grind down the spot welds on top of the rail, the heat used when getting very thin on metal was enough to crack the spot welds, and I used a chisel to pop it off the rail.
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Used U-Pol stuff to treat the Rail (after a minor repair was needed at the back. Rail was stripped, treated with Rust converter, Then acid etch primed, then bottom part covered with Gravigard (Gravitex based) on the inside of the sill. And copper rich weld through primer used on the top section of rail where the floor will be plug welded back onto the rail. Expensive stuff, but when you want to do a job right... I'd rather pay it than Septone.
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Marked out the first part. The floor is made in two sections, and I tried to follow this as best I could. Front firewall section, which folds underneath the car, on the seam line near the A-Pillar i repaired earlier. Then the next section of floor is folded over the top of that, and bends up to sit inside the car. Plug welded onto the inside.
This is the first section. Once it was all cut out. Holes were drilled for plug welding back on. and all the gal where the welding was going to happen was removed with a wire wheel. Before putting on, it was treated to a coat of weld through primer.
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The next floor section, same deal.
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Front floor bit going in.
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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 12:12 pm 
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Now the final stage of the floor can go in. All 83 plug weld holes drilled, plus the two 25mm holes for the drain (they look a little small in this shot, because they were, fixed them later)
Was tack welded inplace, then stiched slowly.
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All welds were ground down. And had a bit of the "Oil Can" effect. So used a blow torch to heat the metal cherry red at the spot it was buckling. Then used a hammer to belt it flat, then quench it with a wet rag. Shrinks the metal faster than what it expanded, therefore making the metal tighter, and the heat also tempers the metal making it harder, So therefore eliminating that pain in the ass buckling sound.
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A very light coat of etch primer just to finish it off (Bit thicker on the welds). It is only the floor covered in carpet. Underside covered in Gravitex, so I didnt care too much for a file finish. But i think it turned up alright.
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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 9:33 pm 
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Hey mate,
Damn that was some bad rust, looks like you've got it all under control though. :thumbsup:
Keep the updates coming, i like reading build threads with good pictures and descriptions.

Keep up the good work mate.....

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 12:34 am 
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Nice work! Takes me back to my rustoration.

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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 7:44 pm 
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Thanks fella's. It was a big job, i'm starting to appreciate that when proper panel beaters say that there is a lot of work involved, that they actually do mean that there IS a lot of work involved. But good thing about doing it yourself is that you can take the time to get it right. Or at least as happy as you could be with it for the time you want to invest into it.

Yeah Trav, it had heaps more rust/bog in it than what I thought. Sorting it out bit by bit as I go. Floor was the first to be fixed. Nothing I can't handle... for the moment. Not sure if I want to tackle rear 1/4's or wheel arches yet. But i'll see how confident I become.

Tried to make it sort of like a tutorial, or more like how I do it myself but I'm no pro, just obsessive about doing things the right way and fixing all rust, rather than just pump it full of fiberglass.

Doing sills currently though. Stay tuned, More pics to come.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2009 7:42 pm 
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This week it was time to tackle the drivers side sill panel. I used an old section of sill that i cut out to get a copy made for the new replacement panel. This new sill panel was made out of 1.1mm Gal (same deal as before)
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File comment: The old section of Sill used to make a copy of the new one.
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File comment: Two complete new sills ready folded for use.
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Did it in steps.
1. Shape the end of the new sill.
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2. Take off doors and wheels, hold car on stands at suspension points front and rear.
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3. Drill out the spot welds under the car that hold the bottom section of sill on the car.
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4. Using a Jig I made for my angle grinder, which sits the cutting disk 14mm (half way) along the sill panel, I cut using the guide from the outside of the panel. This maintained the sill's natural curve. As the sill panel itself is wider in the middle section of the car and narrower at the front.
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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
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Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2009 7:51 pm 
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5. Prep the inside of the old sill. Rust proofed it all, then covered in Etch Primer (mask off areas that you'll weld on later)
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6. Tack weld the new sill panel in place.
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7. Re install doors, and use jack stands to correct the sill height at door gaps before Plug welding the bottom section back onto the car and finalising its position (most people won't need to do this. I had to because my car was in an accident previously, and I needed to make sure that the sill was straight. Because the 1.1mm sill was on the 0.8mm car steel, i just had to crank the jack stand a few turns to correct the mm gap that was at the front)
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8. After fully seaming the top, It was ground down for a file finish. NO BOG REQUIRED! (Hopefully)
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9. Fix the back section, Small cuts on the back to bend the sill around to finish off the guard. These were welded together, and cut to length.
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10. Stand back and admire you hard effort's results.
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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 5:53 pm 
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Passenger side sill now done too. Just have to touch up a few little things on the rear where it meets the dog leg. It has a bit of rust in the corner. then that side will be done almost completely.
I greatly desired to put an action shot in the mix for you all.
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File comment: Action shot for you all.
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Attachment:
File comment: Picture I found from the days. Of my mate an I bending up the new sills!
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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


Last edited by RJB510 on Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:37 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 6:03 pm 
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Some of the boot rust that was fixed also.

Took a while to crudely bash the metal into place, makes it difficult without a folding machine and i was impatient and wanted it done rather than getting someone to fold a section for me (Had i done that it probably would have been done in half the time). Also attempted a proper file finish on the top section of the fender. I can't even spot the join, I was pretty happy with that. Pretty rough on the right side next to the channel itself however but i don't really care because you wont see it. And nicked a bit of the corner with the grinder in the lead. So i'll have to fill that part :( If it pisses me off that much then i'll re-weld and finish it properly later.
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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600 Toy
PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 10:25 pm 
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Ross, you are one crazy nut.
Reminds me of me! :giggle:
Keep up the good work mate. :thumbsup:

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