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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 3:45 pm 
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Location: Townsville QLD
cheers alistair,

thats good to know, we are looking forward to the move away from this stinking hot heat and humidity that i have endured for the last 28 years :roll:

and have herd good things regarding motorsport around Ballarat


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 4:04 pm 
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Location: sydney
However I am moving to Victoria to a place called Ballarat in June with my family so I think it'd be best to wait until then to start the project, as I wish to get the sr20 fitted and engineered before we move. This way I can road trip it by myself and the wife and kids are flying down a month later. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

theres not much point engineering it in QLD with a sr20 because youl have to re engineer it in VIC


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 4:19 pm 
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Location: Blackburn, Victoria.
I'd check first, but my friend bought an RX-7 that had been fitted with a 13BT, engineering in Queensland. He registered it down here without an issue, they just wanted to see the paperwork to make sure it matched the plate in the engine bay.

You'll like Ballarat then Tavis - it's cold!

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The fleet:
'80 200B GX - the green200b - hibernating
'81 RX-7 - 12A, coilovers, 4.1 Torsen LSD - daily
'74 RX-2 - 13B bridgeport, 4.44 LSD - cruiser
'82 Hilux - 350 Chev, 4.3 Detroit Locker, 33s - 4WD

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Green200B has forgotten more about 200Bs than we will ever know.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 5:18 pm 
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Location: Frankston Vic
sutho510 wrote:
However I am moving to Victoria to a place called Ballarat in June with my family so I think it'd be best to wait until then to start the project, as I wish to get the sr20 fitted and engineered before we move. This way I can road trip it by myself and the wife and kids are flying down a month later. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

theres not much point engineering it in QLD with a sr20 because youl have to re engineer it in VIC


Yep it will need to be re-engineered down here. Don't know about your mate Al but, I'd say he's very lucky.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 8:25 pm 
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Location: southern adelaide
I feel ur pain mate with the rust my 180b has been hell to rework ancient repairs and weld it properly there is so many things you can do these days to prevent rust etc.
im in the panel trade as a panelbeater and i do many restorations.
I have learnt alot with what i can use and what not to use like previous panelbeaters used to many years ago and i see what it looks like after a few years .
any questions feel free to ask and some things might have to be bought threw the trade for best results and that i could probably help you with.

my moto is "IF IN DOUBT CUT IT OUT"

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 11:07 pm 
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Tavis wrote:
With this in mind do you think she'll be right until then or should I take some preventitive methods in the meantime :D


I'd leave it. The only difference between a little spot of rust and a big spot of rust is the size of the patch panel you need to weld in. Sounds silly, but there really isn't that much more work in a larger rust repair than a smaller one.

6 months shouldn't make that much difference. Spraying it thoroughly now with fishoil / rustproofing / etc will only make things messier when you get around to fixing it porperly.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 11:33 pm 
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Dave wrote:
6 months shouldn't make that much difference. Spraying it thoroughly now with fishoil / rustproofing / etc will only make things messier when you get around to fixing it porperly.


that is very true once the rust starts that stuff does nothing


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 11:00 pm 
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Location: southern adelaide
yeah right ... not trying to be rude but leaving rust in a car leaves crusty bits of rust inside a panel then moisture sets inside possibly blocking drainage then stuffs the next layer on the car.

look at most toyotas alot of drainage and vents on most panels were used to dry em out.

3m or wurth rust converter brush it on after descaling and wirebrush etc it self primes with copper spray or cold galv will keep you going till you saved enough money to get it done right.


"you know when you got a rust problem when you hear it vibrating with you stereo lol"

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 12:38 am 
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If it was a original paint with flaky rust comming through, wire wheeling it back and trying to slow the rusting as much as possible would be the go, however this car has clearly been resprayed and wire wheeling would probably mean cutting through a lot of bog not to mention removing his fresh paint which would then mean extensive work to put it all back in and cover it back up = time effort and money. Might as well just do the thing properly if he was going to do that. I think why dave said that is because from what we can see the car looks straight the paint looks good and the rust is hidden, yes the rust will cause problems down the track however fixing it is going to be a big pain in the arse and he might as well drive it and enjoy his straight shiny looking car untill then.

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http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=10489&start=30


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 6:04 am 
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Location: Creswick, Vic
green200b wrote:
I'd check first, but my friend bought an RX-7 that had been fitted with a 13BT, engineering in Queensland. He registered it down here without an issue, they just wanted to see the paperwork to make sure it matched the plate in the engine bay.

You'll like Ballarat then Tavis - it's cold!

A mate recently bought a VK commy with a turbo'd 302 engineered and registered in QLD and he had no drama's either. But yes best to check first.

As for your move to Ballarat... what the hell are you thinking? You will die down here, it's effin freeeezing, you've become accustomed to nice weather up there and then you wish to move to Victoria's answer to the Antarctic? Hahaha... Nar cool, the more datto folk here the better i say.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 3:16 pm 
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Yeah unless you are prepared to go the bare metal rotisserie thing you are only looking at a temporary fix.I just got me a rust bucket and am going to do the full bare metal strip down and rebuild.I had cost me 2k just in equipment so far. ( mig, blasting unit.Compressor and other gear and I haven't really started yet.You are going to need money time and lots of patience to do it right.Hell I had to wait until my late 50's to actually build me a decent 1600.This build will be datto # 5 for me.Thats OK my dear wife has bought one as well so I now have 2 to do.I am semi retired and that helps.It will probably be 3 years to finish them .Some rebuilds have taken folk 10 years.
DatsEZ


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