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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 8:58 pm 
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Location: Coffs Harbour, NSW
As of right now, I'm just thinking out loud, but have always considered a complete rewire of the next 1600 I get, which is very shortly, looking at some now.

Anyways, I know my way around a soldering iron and heatshrink, so don't mind playing with wires, and have alway thought about what things I would add, relocate, change if I was to do a complete rewire of a 1600. This idea always comes to mind as usually a datsuns engine bay wiring is a mess, over 40 years of added/removed bits, distributor changes, coil changes, headlight upgrades etc all make it a dogs breakfast unless done properly.

Let's just assume I'll stick with an L series driveline for simplicity sake.

Probably source a painless wiring kit, EZ wiring kit, or any one of the many "universal" kits on the market as a starting point.
-relocate the fuse panel to a custom bracket below/behind the glove box
-modern wiring and relays for headlights, including a negative earth switch too
-hidden engine bay wiring, with firewall wire pass through grommet behind the motor, coil, horn and headlight relays under radiator panel, washer bottle behind strut tower
-flipped wiper motor into cabin
-battery in the boot on the side in a sunken box with an isolator switch, circuit breaker/rollover switch
-new wiring to taillights (trailer 7 pin is a simple option) with new connectors
-alarm system incorporated into wiring
-central locking
-courtesy lights
-speaker wiring
-electric gauges from motor
-remote starter?
-hidden immobiliser switches


Another option would be to source a body wiring loom from something like a 4 door skyline, and shorten/relocate/eliminate wiring to suit the 1600 shell, then things like central locking, boot release, fuel release, alarm, could be easily incorporated.

Anyways, what I was getting at is, if there is something you added later in regards to wiring, what was it, or what else would you like to add? I'm always gathering info before I start a job

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 9:01 pm 
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Hey mate,

Good luck with it all.

If I did it again, would design my own ECU for the interior, it's really not that complicated and you could implement some awesome features that the newer cars have.

If you want to keep it simple, just split the car into 3 sections. Use good quality connectors and a good quality crimping tool. Pretty easy to work out the fuse requirements and wire requirements.

Go the ECU option though, you can convert to leds for all your dash wiring, run it off 5v with multi colour for extra bling!

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 9:53 pm 
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Location: Coffs Harbour, NSW
I was thinking a PDM setup if I was to run an EFI motor, no fuses or relays makes for a neat setup.

These days, the options are only limited by your imagination (and a lack of skill with a 3D printer)

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 11:09 am 
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I think you have covered most of it. But I would stick with a factory loom from a newer model car so you get to keep the multi-coloured wiring & you will already have a base wiring diagram.

I'll be wiring in a new ECU to my car soon, and will be looking at using one of these relay/fuse boxes http://www.swe-check.com.au/pages/produ ... 4/158/1040

For me, features I would like;

- Proximity keys, my PNM35 stagea has them, so handy for opening the car and also not having to put a key in the ignition.
- Courtesy lights - under the drivers door mirror, on the inside of the door near the door handle and under the dash.
- Delay timer for auto off of interior light once ignition on.
- Can Bus with a heap of sensors coming back to a central screen

Keep the thread updated with what you find/do.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 2:20 pm 
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I'd also add some universal points/contacts for power in the dash so when you are fitting other ancillaries such as a turbo timer, exhaust gas temp gauges, Exhaust Gas Analyser gauges etc. you just solder or plug straight into these easy to access areas.
12V Power outlets around the car also come in handy if you are permanently fixing video cameras such as go-pro's or GPS trackers or the like.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 12:09 am 
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When i rewired my car, I factored all the stuff that I had and wanted to install and ran wires and fuses all hidden accordingly. I had a huge list of stuff and everything is pretty much wired up separately. If you know how DC wiring works and what things you want to run off relays and triggered by accessories and ign etc, its really quite easy to make your own wiring harness rather than a pre-made one like a "Painful wiring kit". If in doubt, follow one like an S13 diagram.

I used power distribution blocks with fuses to wire it to. So I could add stuff later on down the track.

Hey Martin, What do you mean about adding the courtesy lights under the door mirror and near the handle? I was thinking under the dash would be nice and also on the bottom of the door for when it opens? But I haven't gotten around to that yet...

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 12:21 pm 
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RJB510 wrote:
I used power distribution blocks with fuses to wire it to.


Got an example of what you are running Ross?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 7:13 pm 
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Stoney
My 2 cents below.
Painless wire kits or one of similar setup are quite poor and do not compare to a well thought out loom. however they are ok if you are only running a carby engine and no significant other loads ie amps etc.
PDMs are less work than a fuse box what you pay for the box saves you in labour, not such an issue if your doing it yourself, a quality 12 channel unit PDM is about $800.
Bussman fuse boxes are a quality unit if you want to build your own loom from scratch.10 relay, 40 fuse units are about $200

If your doing a EFI setup use quality wire such as Tefzel and Rachem heatshrink and boots, it will look much better and be more reliable. (But its expensive!) 32 pin connector male and female with boots about $400.
Any of the good firewall connectors demand this wire anyway, anything else is to thick in outside Diameter.

What I do is,Break it up into 3 r 4 looms at your power source PDM /fuse box etc,
create a spreadsheet documenting each device in each loom, add the appropriate wire colour and size relays notes etc.
Rear of car- tail lights fuel pump etc
Front of car - engine bay, lights wipers
Dash and inside of the car
Engine (If EFI)

Sometimes there is some overlay thats Ok, but you don't want just one large bunch f wires at the source its much easier to sort in this format or similar.
It also allows you to use the same colour wires in each loom if you need to, and always add some spares its easyier to do this now than unpick a neat wiring loom.
Cheers Adrian


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 11:49 pm 
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I'll just preface that my wiring was completed through what I wanted. So I wouldn't recommend just using these without knowing your current draw and what will take the power. BUT... I used a power block similar to this:
Attachment:
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download.jpg [ 7.44 KiB | Viewed 2315 times ]


It has common power in that you can take from a relay, or acc. or ign and then you can splice or attach your parts off from that later.

Because i run an isolation switch for the battery, and I wanted to make sure that some things had power even when the battery was off, I used these boxes. So i have one for Interior lights, Horn, Radio constant, and all those things. Runs straight off the battery.

Then some things off accessories, some off ign. Some which are relayed and others that come off the barrel. Its a bit complex, but it works well for me. Just fits under the dash. I'd like something a bit neater though.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2016 10:29 am 
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Some good posts here. Thanks for the info!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2016 9:56 am 
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Excellent ideas being thrown about, that's what I love about forums, there is always a different way to go about the same task.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2016 3:21 pm 
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