Ozdat Home Feature Cars Ozdat Classifieds Event Calander Links Trade Link Tech Resource Merchandise Donate Web Mail
It is currently Tue Dec 12, 2017 12:21 am

All times are UTC + 10 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 70 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 8:26 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 1:54 pm
Posts: 1748
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Would any auto elec be able to test it? Like I said previously, I had it done once before, but my mechanics got their auto elec to test it and he said it was fine, but I never spoke to him directly, so I don't know how accurate the info was, plus it was a long time ago, no harm in testing it again, I guess.

When we wired in the EWP, it came with an inline fuse, all of the wiring was supplied. If I was to fit the RB30 alternator, how would I test the wiring is adequate, and if I needed to upgrade any of it, which would it be? Power and earth? Or just power?

_________________
build-threads.com


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 8:45 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 1:54 pm
Posts: 1748
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Just thinking out loud, but if my volts are dropping under load, doesn't that point to the regulator being the culprit? Since it's not properly 'regulating' the amount of power needed?

Edit: Just tee'd up a bench test with a local auto elec, didn't like the one I rang yesterday, but this one seems much more cluey and seemed very interested when I said "Datsun". Might rip out the alternator tonight and get it tested tomorrow after work.

_________________
build-threads.com


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 10:00 am 
Offline
Guru
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2003 4:58 pm
Posts: 2611
Location: Adelaide.
You're right, the voltage shouldn't drop.
I assume you did all this at engine idle.
It might be better at higher revs but, as I said, something is a bit tired :(

As for wiring upgrades, here is what I recommend for "add on" auxiliary circuits.
http://www.mediafire.com/view/arjf4qbicuzo8xk/Auxilliary_12V_Power_Feed.jpg

Leave the OEM loom alone protected with a device of the correct rating.

Operating relays to power aux. circuits reduces the load on the switch and ensures full power is applied to the circuit.

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 8:44 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 1:54 pm
Posts: 1748
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Took my alternator out last night, taking it to get bench tested after work. Had a good look at it and noticed it has 60A stamped on it, so that's good to know. Part number is 9120060927 but I can't seem to find anything on Google, would love to know what it's out of.

This is all of the stampings:
9 120 060 927
U-K1->14V 24/60A
23100-V9401

Then it has an "841" off to the side at a 90deg angle.

_________________
build-threads.com


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 10:22 am 
Offline
Guru
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2003 4:58 pm
Posts: 2611
Location: Adelaide.
The OEM alternator on the FJ20 engine is a 70A unit.
60A is more than enough for the average bear.

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 11:16 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 1:54 pm
Posts: 1748
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Wonder why mine has a 60A unit then? The original one must have crapped itself, or maybe the motor didn't come with one when it was imported?

Found this thread on SAU, someone asking to identify an alternator with all of the same markings as mine except for the main 10-digit part number. Comes up as RB30, strange.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4269 ... fy-please/

_________________
build-threads.com


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 7:13 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:48 pm
Posts: 798
Location: over crowded Sydney
thanks for measurements anth

_________________
1600 with FJ20 & Simmons. something different.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 7:23 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:48 pm
Posts: 798
Location: over crowded Sydney
Nissanman wrote:
The capacitor is only necessary for suppression of RF into your radio/HI-FI system, nothing more.
Usually fitted between the +12V terminal [B+] and Ground [D-].
No radio?
No capacitor!


So i don't understand why this remanufactured item i've bought has the capacitor between B+ and D+ ?

The electrician who recently re wired my car has wires going to B+ and D+ already, do i just unplug the capacitor wire from D+ and plug to D- ?

And yes i am planning to use the radio every time i drive, so noise suppression is paramount!

http://www.ebay.com.au.au/itm/100-Amp-Bosch-VL-Commodore-RB30E-RB30ET-3-0L-6-Cyl-Turbo-Non-Turbo-Alternator-/131272785624?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e9077bed8

_________________
1600 with FJ20 & Simmons. something different.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 8:26 pm 
Offline
Guru
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2003 4:58 pm
Posts: 2611
Location: Adelaide.
Neither do I!
According to the VL Commodore Manual I have, the capacitor connects BAT to GROUND.
I can scan the schematic if required.

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 9:22 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 1:54 pm
Posts: 1748
Location: Melbourne, VIC
DATO4 wrote:
Nissanman wrote:
The capacitor is only necessary for suppression of RF into your radio/HI-FI system, nothing more.
Usually fitted between the +12V terminal [B+] and Ground [D-].
No radio?
No capacitor!


So I don't understand why this remanufactured item I've bought has the capacitor between B+ and D+ ?



Looks like it goes from D- to D+ in the photo?

Got mine bench tested tonight, ended up taking both of them down and testing them both. FJ alternator is a bit tired, you could see the volts dropping when he was simulating electrical load. He tested the RB30 alternator and he said it was much better, he pretty much wrote off the FJ one completely and just told me to fit the RB one. Gave me a better plug, too, so I can wire it in. I asked him about upgrading wiring and he said it would be fine. So I guess now I'll clean it up a bit and fit it, see how it goes and report back here. Tempted to pull it apart completely and clean/paint it all nice, but I'm anxious and just want to see if it works!

_________________
build-threads.com


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 10:10 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:48 pm
Posts: 798
Location: over crowded Sydney
Anth510 wrote:
DATO4 wrote:
Nissanman wrote:
The capacitor is only necessary for suppression of RF into your radio/HI-FI system, nothing more.
Usually fitted between the +12V terminal [B+] and Ground [D-].
No radio?
No capacitor!


So I don't understand why this remanufactured item I've bought has the capacitor between B+ and D+ ?



Looks like it goes from D- to D+ in the photo?

ah yes, so it does. i've looked a few on ebay, plus your photos. got mixed up with another. all this alternator talk is confusing the sh*t out of me

_________________
1600 with FJ20 & Simmons. something different.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 8:43 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 1:54 pm
Posts: 1748
Location: Melbourne, VIC
DATO4 wrote:
ah yes, so it does. I've looked a few on ebay, plus your photos. got mixed up with another. all this alternator talk is confusing the sh*t out of me


Haha tell me about it!

_________________
build-threads.com


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 11:40 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 13, 2014 10:49 pm
Posts: 7
Hi OZDAT ! , i hope this helps, i used the same ebay 105amp from Adelaide.
I had to use my old pulley ( used trusty makita impact driver ... i think 22mm socket)
I have battery in boot (650cca), 2x 044 fuel pumps, datsport rad with thermo,
h4/h1 narva ,elec waterpump, humble sony , etc and wasnt liking the '40amp' lol that was replaced!
Sits on 13.75 v at idle now and doesnt go high with revs. 3months hassle free!
I have a 785 fan belt but will swap to a 775 / 770 ... not much adjustment, old alt used 725
I used 0 guage from b+ to starter (to battery ... ) , i used the old main wire as the sense and
hooked up my light to the clip with the sense, after i found these pics... cred to them and the interworld

Image


Image


Image

Image


Image


Image

ps... thanks for all the reading provided in the past!
pss... Hi Baz n tRacy, thanks for the rad! ; )


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 7:27 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 13, 2014 10:49 pm
Posts: 7
me again...

took a quick pic today

Image


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 10:42 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 1:54 pm
Posts: 1748
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Had a go at fitting the RB alternator tonight and ran into some fitment issues, turns out the mounting legs are about 5mm or so further apart than my old alternator, and the adjustment bracket was a few mm too high. Not sure if it has something to do with the fact that both my upper and lower brackets are custom made? (Remember my alternator was moved back 20mm to line up with the first groove on the pulley). I was going to throw a spacer on the lower bracket and maybe die grind the slot on the upper one, but then I thought, what if I just put the guts of the RB alt into the casing of my old one? I'm fairly sure they're similar enough, I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see if it can work.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 70 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next

All times are UTC + 10 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group