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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 12:30 pm 
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Looking at options for the radius rod setup in my 180B SSS, and was hoping to use a steering rack end / axial joint similar to the pic below.

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Anyone done something similar ? I'm particularly looking for recommendations as to what joint to use.

Logic (my logic anyway :oops: ) says that if the smallest diameter of the existing radius rod is 12mm, I should be looking for a rack end or similar with an absolute minimum dimension of that size.

Alternatively, anyone have a link to a catalog or similar that gives dimension of different joints ?

Otherwise I'll just go with the more normal "T3" style of radius rod.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 7:04 pm 
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I was looking at using some from a hilux 2005+ model.
I think the thread on the rod is 14x1.5
The problem is finding a suitable high tensile nylock nut for the ball socket end.
I was going to make a barrel adjuster with locknuts to allow easy adjustment of caster.

I havent mocked it up yet but it would be very wise to check the ball joint has the required movement without binding.
I would think it would easily have enough just by looking.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 7:13 pm 
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Actually, remembering back to when i was looking at rod ends, i found the problem to be, most rack ends do not have enough thread on the ball socket end to adequately engage the nylon of the nylock nut when installed on the original radius rod mount.

I suppose you could use a castellated nut with a split pin if you could find the right size?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 7:37 pm 
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I was also looking to make them adjustable with a left and right hand threaded barrel.

I think I should be right with binding, the assembly will end up considerably longer in the 180B than in a 1600. 180B also has the luxury of having a bolt-on bracket for the front end of the rod rather than a bracket that is part of the shell. I intend to make new brackets that will locate the front of the rod in the correct position (I'm assuming in line with the pivot point of the lower control arm would be ideal) and as far forward as I can get it for a longer radius rod and therefore less angular change in the joint.

Castellated nut would probably work, or even just drill through the nut and thread while it's in its finally position and drop a split pin through.

And I just happen to have a 2006 hilux sitting in the driveway to measure up :thumbsup:

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 2:39 pm 
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Just remember the forces acting on the radius rod/caster rod are in tension and compression and only a small amount of bending (based on load acting by bushes.)
The assumption of diameter being the same or bigger is a good one Dave. The two bolts joining the rod to the LCA will be in shear so they should technically be high tensile and the same grade and diameter (or larger).

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 9:22 am 
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Sounds like the OP's idea is a good one providing the joint can be lubed and booted to keep the lube in and the dirt out.

Maybe a suspension ball joint or an industrial ball and socket bearing?

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 9:56 am 
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Hmm, ball joint might not be a bad idea either if I can find one with plenty of thread.

Just starting to line up a few jobs while I'm doing a TAFE welding course with access to lots of top-end equipment. Otherwise it will be back to doing everything with oxy :roll:

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1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady


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