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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 9:49 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Vic
Pista_510 wrote:
In the R&P conversion I did on my own 1600 over 20 years ago, I also used a Bluebird SII crossmember / steering gear / adjustable rake column / intermediate shaft (like Alan) .


My apologies to Alan, he did not use a Bluebird cross member in his conversion....sorry..... :(


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2016 9:50 am 
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Thanks Savio for your clear explanations of what is often misunderstood. Just so nobody gets this wrong, I have included some info about how to design and install crush tubes: the way that Baz at Datsport does it is the CORRECT way - no surprise there!. To be effective crush tubes have to be designed and installed with a few critical matters in mind and I have included a rough schematic that should help explain. Correctly installed the tube serves to both LOCATE and ensure LOAD IS APPLIED TO SPECIFIC COMPONENTS. The bottom of the crush tube sits on the inside of the chassis rail. Here it is the bolt that locates the crush tube with respect to the lower part of the chassis rail: the lower hole in the chassis rail is just big enough for the shaft of the bolt to pass through. Here the hole in the crossmember should also be just enough for the shaft of the bolt to pass through. The bolt can be a loose fit inside the crush tube, because it is actually the fit between the hole in the upper part of the chassis rail and the crush tube that provides the critical locating of the crush tube with respect to the chassis rail (where there must be very little clearance). Before the assembly is clamped together by tightening the nut on the bolt, the crush tube sits slightly below the top surface of the upper part of the chassis rail: it must NOT project above it. When the bolt is torqued down the chassis rail is deformed exactly to the point that the top of the crush tube aligns with the top of the chassis rail. There must be no possibility of axial movement, which could happen if the crush tube is too long. If the crush tube is too short, the chassis rail will be damaged when the bolt is tightened. Crush tubes must be turned down the right length in a lathe, not cut with a hack saw and filed: the end faces have to be square (that is, at right angles to the axis of the tube) and parallel to each other, and care is needed when cutting the hole in the upper part of the chassis rail. A step drill that can cut a round hole just a bit bigger than the outside diameter of the crush tube is a great investment. Remember that this type of thick walled "crush tube" is not actually a crush tube in the true engineering sense: it effectively does not crush at all and, hence, the other structural parts must deform for this method of fixing to work, but they should not be damaged when the whole assembly is tight. Finally, chassis rails are not exactly the same height throughout their length and may be distorted before you start, but the ends of the crush tube must ALWAYS be square to the axis of the tube, and parallel teach other: otherwise there is the possibility that even though the assembly has been tightened, the tube might rotate with variations in load and the whole thing could come loose. The length of the crush tube must be based on the MEASURED internal height of the chassis rail at exactly the point where the crossmember is to be installed.


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CrushTubeConfig.jpg
CrushTubeConfig.jpg [ 53.86 KiB | Viewed 3283 times ]

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Last edited by AlanDatsomefun on Tue Mar 15, 2016 1:27 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2016 11:28 am 
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For the original poster, if this setup isn't a solution due to the rotary engine, maybe a custom centre pivot steering rack, like from a SAAB 9-3 might be an option

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2016 2:54 pm 
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Quote:
Stoney said: For the original poster, if this setup isn't a solution due to the rotary engine, maybe a custom centre pivot steering rack, like from a SAAB 9-3 might be an option

I think that you will find to make a centre-pivot rack work, the rack would have to be further back than is possible in a Datsun 1600, and power steering would be essential. I believe that in the Saab, the rack is close to the driver's feet and (??) mounted on the chassis at the firewall. If you are looking to install a rotary or Honda S2000 (headers on the RHS), the alternative approach might be to place the rack forward of the crossmember as in Datsun 240Z or Ford Escort.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2016 8:08 pm 
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Hey again Guys,

I am at the beginning stages of organizing one of these steering kits from Large Ind.

My biggest concern is the position of the input but, i will make it work :D I am keen enough to have a look into it. Obviously, I'm only going to know how "impossible" this is going to be once i get the steering in place and have an engine to "dummy fit". There is a mechanic in town that is fond of rotars so i will hit him up to borrow an empty housing assembly and that'll give me the best idea of how it is all going to go.

Nothing is impossible. Can always massage the wheel well at the lower point to create some space for the dump to squeeeze though between it and the input. The engine's sump.. well, that's going to be custom anyway. I can just make that as i need it. A non issue really...

I think there has been folk look to convert the Escort forward mounted rack into 1600s, dont know the result though. I'll have a crack at this one first :D It'll work!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 11:37 am 
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Not that I have looked at this conversion at all but, if you were going for a forward mounted rack, would the 240z rack and front cross member be a simpler option?
I'm probably wrong but I have a feeling the cross members are the same width and would bolt straight in. Sorry in advance if the above info is misleading.

Cheers
Mick


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 3:44 pm 
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Do you think he would of done much testing on the road/track?


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 9:57 pm 
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Indeed 240Z racks do bolt into 1600's
The issue is that the radius rods hit the steering tie rods on the end of the rack.
You would need to convert to rear mounted radius rods

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 11:09 pm 
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Rear mounted radius rod sounds like it could run into a whole new lot of issues?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2016 9:09 pm 
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Aha, that all makes sense.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 8:46 am 
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Flip the 1600 X-member & mount a LHD 240Z/260Z on the rear of the X-member....

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 8:09 pm 
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Location: Rockhampton, QLD, Aus
Rack and Pinion conversion from Large Industries - Installed (well... x-member bolted in)
Attachment:
20160803_144156.jpg
20160803_144156.jpg [ 328.74 KiB | Viewed 2916 times ]

Attachment:
20160803_144202.jpg
20160803_144202.jpg [ 342.54 KiB | Viewed 2916 times ]


Now I just have to figure out how the hell I'm going to fit and fix a rotary engine into that wide open space :D

And new suspension and brakes and things too I guess :D

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 12:12 pm 
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Any updates on this project ?
A Google search on 'Large Industries' didn't return anything related to this?
Anybody got a link that works?

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 8:01 pm 
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They were on Facebook but at the start of this year they just sort of disappeared. I'm unsure what is happening with them but my guess is they're gone.
Pretty sure they sold their car they used also.
There is a mob in America using an MR2 rack on a crossmember.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 11:24 pm 
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Basically he got sick of people asking thousands of questions and then not wanting to pay his asking price. I haven't seen him for a while but last time I spoke to him he had definitely had enough. One member on here apparently pushed and pushed trying to get every last cent off the price that he could.

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