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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 2:38 pm 
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Location: Sydney
Hi

I know this has been done before but would like to know whats mods are involved?

Cheers

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Datsun 610 SSS FJ20DET 552 rwhp on E85


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 2:58 am 
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Location: Melbourne Eastern
You need to get under your 16 with the Z31 bar and brackets and look at where it needs to be mounted. A nutsert tool (AKA Rivnut) really helps mount the main swaybar brackets. I think I needed a plate to extend the mounts front bolt hole slightly forward of the crossmember. If you have a hoist and a Mig welder it's easier to install a bracket on each trailing arm for the drop links. (I think I used S13 or Hyundai drop links).
It's a fair bit of mucking around but I'm happy with the result.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 10:27 am 
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Thanks 180BSSSt,

Sounds like a little bit of work is involved... I think I may attempt installing one.

Would you say there is much improvement?

Any chance of uploading some pics for assistance please

Cheers

FeZ

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 1:32 am 
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My SSS has competition Konis all round and adjustable suspension. I have an old Pedders (20 or 21mm) swaybar on the front and previously I'd used a modified 1600 front swaybar (18mm from memory) on the rear. I had to change that when I installed the R31 rear brakes. The Z31 bar is thicker but hollow and it was easy to feel the difference it made to the handling. I like it.
Some experts say to leave the swaybar alone on Datsuns and install harder springs. I already have uprated springs at both ends and didn't want to go any harder on a car mainly used on the street. Makes it hard to get traction on bumpy corners, so I thought I'd experiment with swaybars to tailor the handling balance.
The negatives are a small weight increase and slight reduction in ground clearance at the rear.
I have no way to explain exactly how it feels but I can tell you my SSS has really upset a couple of 1999 WRX drivers on the Great Ocean Road. No matter how hard they tried (and they were fast) I was all over them. In the rain. They didn't think a rear wheel drive car (let alone a crappy looking old Datsun) could do that. When we eventually stopped in a town one of them demanded "What the F--- have you done to that thing?"

As I said, you'll need a nutsert tool (with M8 inserts) and possibly a mig welder to attach the brackets you'll need, and you'll have to make those brackets. If that's no problem, go for it. If that's difficult you could try harder rear springs to increase the rear suspension roll stiffness.

Hope all this helps. Cheers!

BTW it's a pity you're not in Melbourne- you could just come over and check it out.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 11:21 pm 
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Hey 180BSSST

It is a pity that im not closer, as id like to see how you've done it!

Thanks for the advice, I think it sounds like a decent mod to look into. I guess Ill have a tinker and see what I can come up with.

FeZ

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 9:53 am 
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180BSSSt is the rear end of your B camber & toe compensated?
How much toe are you running?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 4:36 pm 
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Yes, it is, but it has 6mm total toe in. I modified the rear end back in the 80s with help from my Dad and as I was just learning I miscalculated and 6mm is the minimum I can get. Since it doesn't chew the tyres and gives stable handling (and power oversteer is always available), I've left it, with the idea of eventually building something quite different.
I see your point; reducing Toe In or even setting a bit of Toe Out would alter turn in and make the car more "taily". If Fez has that adjustability in his car it'll be easier to play with that before going to the trouble of installing a swaybar.
I remember now that I did consider re-doing the crossmember and brackets but thought I'd try a rear bar as a couple of books suggested it as the way to tune roll stiffness without changing spring rates.... and Nissan engineers used them to do that on the Z31s.


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