Ozdat Home Feature Cars Ozdat Classifieds Event Calander Links Trade Link Tech Resource Merchandise Donate Web Mail
It is currently Thu Aug 16, 2018 5:27 pm

All times are UTC + 10 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 76 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 5:52 am 
Offline

Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2003 8:51 pm
Posts: 3
Unprepped L18 bottom end with full-counterweighted crank will hold up to 9000 rpm, I've newer faced any problems below 8000rpm. There's two problems which need to be fixed, stock flywheel is enormously heavy and will break crank if revved over 8000 rpm, and because crank's rod bearing supply oil lines are cross-drilled, number 2 main bearing will supply oil to 1 and 2 rod bearing and number 4 main bearing supply 3 and 4 rod bearings, there's bad rod bearing oil starvation over 8000rpm. Mainly rod bearing cooling is inefficient and rod bearings will melt if revs are keeped over 8000 long period, eg over 30 seconds or so. Porting those 2 and 4 main bearing oil lines, increasing oil pressure, and making oil supply groove to those main bearing journals will help but there usually still be rod bearing problems if revs are keeped high long periods. Real cure is factory option crank which isn't cross-drilled, or FJ20 which rod oil supply is as good as it can be.

Oil grade is also critical, extreme multi-grade synthetic oils, eg 5W-50 lose their characters rapidly when oil temp rises in rods and instant bearing failure can occur, even with poor mineral oil (eg 10W-30) rod bearings will last much longer.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 11:51 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2004 4:27 pm
Posts: 341
Location: Wollongong
OK!

The final engine plan list is:

180BSSS Head- Various work done, double performance valve springs, unknown extent of porting etc, WADE CAM 74' "works copy", adjustable CAM gear
Standard bottom end- Polished/ balanced conrods, polished crank (more work to follow), L28 86mm pistons (with dish)
40mm Delorto carbies x2, Match ported to REDLINE manifold, CAI, pod
Genie 4-into-1 Extractors, 2.5 inch exhaust
Bluebird Dizzy+coil


The engine will be 'put together and see what we get' approach. This will stop the whole thing being a big dollar build.

Any guesses on the power at the wheels?

Thanks to everyone who has helped out with input. Hopefully i'll get many a fun day/ night from the old girl :D

_________________
END TRANSMISSION
Image


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 12:36 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 8:55 pm
Posts: 576
Location: Perth WA
eee eff eye


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 1:41 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jun 05, 2004 9:35 pm
Posts: 303
Location: Sunshine Coast
Word Taz. :D

My dads 720 ute with L18 revs to 6.5 - 7 grand, and its completly stock. Mind you it doesn't have much after about 6200. 225thous old, not much compression, the usuals.

Someone mentioned that the L18 and L20 flywheel stock is 200mm and the truck has a 225mm flywheel. Is the 720 a 'truck'? and what 'trucks' used an L20? And are the flywheels interchangable? as i wanna chuck a bigger clutch on and if there is a simple bolt on bigger flywheel, well that opens up options for stronger clutchs, which is what i'm after.

_________________
78' 200B. 5 speed, extractors, 2 1/2" exhaust, 32/36 weber, 14" mags, Elec ign, Redlands motor. Slowly Pulling parts off while still driving around. Tree unfortunately signed its death cert.

Recommended Traders: Datsport


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 2:49 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2003 9:23 pm
Posts: 2517
Location: Karrinyup WA
fr3ak wrote:
OK!

The final engine plan list is:

180BSSS Head- Various work done, double performance valve springs, unknown extent of porting etc, WADE CAM 74' "works copy", adjustable CAM gear
Standard bottom end- Polished/ balanced conrods, polished crank (more work to follow), L28 86mm pistons (with dish)
40mm Delorto carbies x2, Match ported to REDLINE manifold, CAI, pod
Genie 4-into-1 Extractors, 2.5 inch exhaust
Bluebird Dizzy+coil


The engine will be 'put together and see what we get' approach. This will stop the whole thing being a big dollar build.

Any guesses on the power at the wheels?

Thanks to everyone who has helped out with input. Hopefully i'll get many a fun day/ night from the old girl :D


sounds good.

buy a dremel and do the polishing yourself. :idea:

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 2:54 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2004 4:27 pm
Posts: 341
Location: Wollongong
pro240c wrote:

sounds good.

buy a dremel and do the polishing yourself. :idea:


Dude :shock: Are you serious? I'll give anything a go if it'll save cash.

Who else has done this? Where's a good place for destructions to DIY?

_________________
END TRANSMISSION
Image


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 3:16 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jul 01, 2003 3:25 pm
Posts: 575
Location: Gold Coast
I did it with a pencil grinder and assorted burr tools.

There are a couple of key areas on an L series head that respond well to porting. The main one is to unshroud the valves. You'll see as the valve opens, there's a vertical surface next to the valve, whish effectively blocks gas flow around that side of the valve. Opening this up improces flow nicely.

Also, just open the ports up slightly and clean them, removing sharp edges, specially from transitions. Don't go crazy and try to make 50mm diameter ports. It won't work :shock:

The best advice I ever received is to take it steady and do a little in each port at a time, so you try to keep all of the ports identical.

Here'sa good general DYI guide to porting. They're working on boat anchors, but the principles are the same for an L series head.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 3:23 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2004 4:27 pm
Posts: 341
Location: Wollongong
Warps wrote:
Here'sa good general DYI guide to porting. They're working on boat anchors, but the principles are the same for an L series head.


hehe, i thought pro240c was talking bout polishing the rods and crank!

All of that porting stuff which you suggested has already been done! Lucky me :D Thanks anyway :D

_________________
END TRANSMISSION
Image


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 3:45 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jul 01, 2003 3:25 pm
Posts: 575
Location: Gold Coast
:oops:

Should read the whole post, I guess :oops:

How about thisthen?


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 4:16 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 2:06 pm
Posts: 994
Location: Adelaide...On the Road again !
Dont use one of those Redline maniflods! they are pretty crappy.
The runners aint even straight and tapper in at the middle.
Get your hands on a Datrally Maniflod. They are an excellent casting.
And it will flow enough air for your intended rpm.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 4:22 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 8:55 pm
Posts: 576
Location: Perth WA
ahahahhaa @ Datsss73's avatar


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 4:22 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2003 2:48 am
Posts: 2185
Location: Melbourne, Vic
Warps,

AWESOME links!! Glad you didn't read the whole post!

Dave

_________________
USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 4:28 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 2:06 pm
Posts: 994
Location: Adelaide...On the Road again !
<-------Dance fatboy! Dance !


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 5:18 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2003 9:23 pm
Posts: 2517
Location: Karrinyup WA
fr3ak wrote:
Warps wrote:
hehe, i thought pro240c was talking bout polishing the rods and crank!


i was.... :!: :D

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 9:39 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2004 4:27 pm
Posts: 341
Location: Wollongong
Datsss73 wrote:
Dont use one of those Redline maniflods! they are pretty crappy.
The runners aint even straight and tapper in at the middle.
Get your hands on a Datrally Maniflod. They are an excellent casting.
And it will flow enough air for your intended rpm.


OK then.

WANTED: Datrally manifold to suit L series 4 cylinder engine. Will consider swapping for Redline Manifold of similar description. Enquire within.

:lol: Jokes people. It'll have to do, i don't wanna spend more money unless i really have to. Damn i'm being a tight arse :?

_________________
END TRANSMISSION
Image


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 76 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next

All times are UTC + 10 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group