Even bigger bearings on the H20, R16 and U20

Either way the L series is hard to beat

so I am guessing that 7,000 is a safe rev limit to set on the L18 i have just rebuilt (rotating assembly was ballanced to .4 of a gram) but I am using standard valve springs and a wade 733a cam (i am sure it will taper off power wise after 6,000) but my better half will be driving it in auto cross and she has no mechanical sympathy so I am planning to run an ignition cut at 7,000 unless advised otherwise...

Its been a while since my 180B SSS had its tacho (dash is currently wrapped up in a blanket in the shed roof awaiting re-fitting after painting is completed), but I'm reasonably sure that 7000 was the factory redline ????

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Sounds right to me. There is a yellow zone on the tacho too, from 6500 I think. I can't check- I put a 240K dash in mine....

We were fitting LD20 cranks to rally engines in 78.
Same spec as L20B , but much better material & for some strange reason, half the price.

What vehicle in North America used the L20B in 75.?

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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

August '73 ('74 model; year) in the 610, '75 model year in the 620 truck and 710 (Violet), '77 in the S10, '79 in the A10. Interesting though.

so a stock L20B engine can rev to 7000rpm ( red line as said ), is this the same with a series 2 bluebird with all the pollution crap on it as i drive mine and it seem like 3500rpm is to much and a gear change is needed, am i just getting old and forgot how too or are to scared to put the boot in to it

Prolly already been said but......the shorter the stroke the higher the rev. The old F1 engines may have been v10 or 12 but they probably only had a stroke of 53mm! That's why they could (or had too...!) rev to 18,000RPM +. Add a turbo (or 2) to that and walaha! umungeous unpredictable horsepower.

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Still doing this.....even though the garage is full of Evo 8 MR and X MR Lancers.

I don't know exactly what was done to my Datto nimber3 but it red lined at 8 but I would get 8.5 to 9 out of it.I do know the valves and Pistons were specially machined and fitted to this L 18. the jetting on my webbers were custom too.It was a pig to drive in traffic but once in its rev range it was a rocket.I would not really perform to its optimum with out keeping the revs up to it.I doubled clutched it so as to keep it up near the red line on gear changes and it loved it.You basically had to flog the sh*t out of it all the time.The big thing was it could pull 160 kph For hours on end and not over heat.I routinely would down change from 4 th to 2 nd to clutch break on dirt.Sounds so wrong but it is doable.Awesome way o brake on dirt if you can learn to master it.To be honest on dirt I rarely used breaks.I did however do in lots of clutches.Very few folk drive datto's like that and I don't recommend it.The guy who built my motor is now a highly payed auto engineer.I will be f@&ked if I know how the Brock / Morten BRE race team reliably got 10 k plus and some say even 12.I would personally like to see that.All I know hot 1800.'s + twin webbers are one of the sweetest sounds there is.I am old school so L series motors for me.These days the twin cam transplants are far more practical and better bang for your buck.
DatsEZ