So I’m considering building an SR20DE, as a street engine not race engine. There is a lot of contradicting information floating around the net, but I have so far gathered that a few common routes consist of the following..

Simple mods such as:

1. Boxed up cold air intake, shortened in length to throttle body
2. Extractors. Not sure if 4-2-1 or 4-1 is best option? Exhaust sizes ranging from 2.25” to 3”?
3. Lightweight flywheel

More involved mods:

4. ECU – would Nistune be a good option? Alternatives?
5. RB20 AFM
6. Will changing to ITB’s produce significant gains?
7. Cams – JWT have a few nice options such as a 281 degree & 12.7mm lift cam, a 275 degree & 12.7mm lift cam, a 266 degree & 12.3mm lift cam and a 260 degree & 11.2mm lift cam. Am I aiming too high cam wise, is a more sedate profile not listed above needed?
8. Valve springs changed along with the cams
9. Some people say upgrade to turbo injectors – is this necessary?
10. Larger bore – would going from 86mm to say 88mm be worth it, in terms of the trade off of capacity v revs?
11. Compression – any ideas how much of an increase could be feasible? Keep in mind I would run this on 98RON

As you can see from the above list, I’m not looking to change the crank or rods. However, a rebuild with a larger bore and new pistons might not be out of the question if the results are substantial. Short of getting the block sleeved to 90mm, which is not an attractive option for me, would increasing the bore from 86mm to say 88mm produce significant gains?

Going from the original bore to an 88mm bore would put capacity at 2092cc compared to the original 1998cc. Just interested to hear some feedback on this point.

Also, does anyone know if doing some work to the head (port/polish/larger valves) is beneficial? I know of the VE heads but without much research, I’m assuming this may be expensive and not a bolt-on process. In terms of a diff, I would go for something around 4.1 or 4.4 so that may influence engine design..

Cheers!

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Build Thread: viewtopic.php?f=59&t=27840

any reson for the sr20de and not the sr20det?

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For this build I want naturally aspirated, I have other plans for a forced induction build a bit later on. That's basically it

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Build Thread: viewtopic.php?f=59&t=27840

Stock S15 4 into 1 or stock mani. 2.5" ex.
Using one as a daily at the moment.
magic in traffic.

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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

I would recommend buying a stock S15 SR20DE with 5 or 6 speed or Autech motor and NOT even thinking of building a motor. It is far cheaper/easier to buy a lowish km import motor with gearbox, ECU, etc, bolt on Stewart Wilkins extractors, better air cleaner setup, tune and away you go. Even building a basic L series and doing most of the work yourself will cost close to $2K, so why build and re-invent the wheel? It is simply not worth your time and effort; unless you are building for a race/rally class or like building engines or spending money unnecessarily or for some reason can build it cheaper/have the parts already.

Autech motors have 200hp standard and can be purchased for under $2.5K.

I am building an Autech rally Datsun 1600 and have no plans to alter the internals of the motor at all. If it was a road car I would go turbo; unless insurance/registration etc were an issue. I am not allowed turbo under the clubman rally class.

Mark

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Datsun 1600/H510 PRC Rally Car - L20B under 2 litre, EFI, 5 speed Hollinger, 5.1 LSD.

Datsun 1600/H510 PRC Rally/Road Car - L20B under 2 litre, downdraft webber, extractors, 5 speed.

Datsun 1600/H510 Clubman Rally Car - Autech SR20 EFI, SR20 "Option 1" copy, 4.8 LSD.

Twin 48 Webbers or Quad throttle bodies?? I know cost is always an issue when going down NA path, for a street car it simply wouldnt be worth it, but for an all out track car, I reckon the sound and punch of a worked NA motor is unreal.

I drove my 200b with a standard s14 NA motor for a good 3 years as a daily, never missed a beat and unbelievably low fuel consumption even when driven hard. Stock ecu and engine, just had 4-2-1 extractors custom made and a stainless 2" system with a cat & herrod motorsport rear muffler. I miss the induction note!

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